GEORGE WILKINSON skirts Semer Water and heads for nature

Semer Water is the largest natural lake in the Dales National Park, and the second largest (after Hornsea Mere) in Yorkshire. Although this doesn't make it big by reservoir standards, it does have a serious almost marine feel especially as you park on the beach-like foreshore and the band of shingle has, to all appearances, tidemarks of debris.

These are not tidemarks but floodmarks, so if you don't want your wheels washed out, check the weather, check with Leyburn TIC. Avoid days of heavy rain.

That said, it's a fine place. Quite high at 830ft, with an undulating surround of medium-sized hills cut by valleys to the west. Distinction is added by the beak-like profile of Addlebrough to the east.

Skirt the lake into a nature reserve. I had forgotten my binoculars so can only report lots of large grey birds (geese?) and smaller white ones (gulls?) hunkered down on the western margin.

This margin is a moveable feast. In rainy weather the flat, wide, marshy valley floods over. The wetland vegetation is interesting and studded with field barns. To do our figure of eight route, you must traverse this. Two alder-clad river crossings later, I made our crossover point at Marsett, an unspoilt hamlet. Our second loop is quite different, a gentle ascent by Bardale Beck. For half a mile we go through intimate sheltered woods, with the river skidding down, on flat, laminated limestone. Then the trees finish and ahead, rising to the skyline, is a stark, beautiful and bare valley clad in rough grasses. The river changes character here, for a quarter of a mile there's a series of falls and a gushing strid, the point where you can stride over the waterway. You can enter an open access area. The Countryside Stewardship Scheme info plaque is deceptive, as it asks you to keep to the public path. I've checked this out with MAFF and there's no need to keep to any particular path - open access means open access and you've paid for it. However, one can have no real complaint because the arrangement allows our route and it's so lovely up here. At the top of the access area comes today's second reason for choosing a reasonably dry time - the river - it must be forded. The water was about six inches deep and six yards across, strewn with boulders. I toyed with taking off my boots and socks, then wandered a little upstream and hopped across where the water divides.

Down Bardale Beck now, following the water. A word of warning if you have children or dogs. Keep close to the river and on the path because yards the other way are black caves and the sinister rumble of subterranean water. My hound developed an unhealthy potholing interest, and to my horror vanished underground, to emerge looking decidedly shaken.

Views down the valley are impressive. Semer Water appears as a flat disc, then Marsett again and dead-end Tarmac heading back. Rush-hour traffic amounted to four cars.

The real rush-hour was in the sky, as rooks poured off the slopes to blacken the lakeside trees.

The gulls had already settled down as white rafts on the water, the geese were tucked in tight and grey on the shore, and Addlebrough was sharply defined by a pink sunset sky.

DIRECTIONS

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

From car park, right on road, ladderstile/fieldgate opposite Low Blean Farm, stile, squeezer. Stile to path by barn, squeezer, stile, squeezer and 11 o'clock to squeezer. Pass ruined chapel then barn, 100 yards, squeezer by stream (not left uphill to Stalling Busk), squeezers, gateway by barn, cross stream and 1 o'clock down to squeezer, stile.

Squeezer between large stump on left and old barn 5 yards to right, right downhill, squeezer on right (waymark) and left to footbridge, right to track, footbridge, gate/fieldgate and track to Marsett.

Over Marsett road bridge and immediately left to track (signed), then path, 3 squeezers, uphill at 1 o'clock to gated squeezer into open access field. For best views, right uphill 100 yards, left to track, maintain height.

At far end of field, left downhill, ford stream and immediately left and stay on path through access area. Gate.

Skirt chapel, left to lane, left over bridge to Marsett Lane. Pass Old Silk Mill. 6. Stile on right into field (signed), 11 o'clock, gate and woods. Right over bridge.

FACT FILE

Distance: Six and a half miles.

Time: Three hours.

Start: Semer Water.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way, through open access area and along permissive path. Access ends September 30, 2001.

Date walked: February 26, 1999.

Road route: Two miles south of Bainbridge on the A684 through Wensleydale.

Car parking: £1, pay at Low Blean Farm on route.

Lavatories: None.

Refreshments: Nearest at Bainbridge.

Tourist & public transport information: Leyburn TIC 01969 623069

Map: The OS map is Yorkshire Dales Northern and Central areas, OL30.

Terrain: Gentle climb.

Footwear: Walking boots.

Points of interest: Semer Water, birds, waterfalls, strid, caves, open access area.

Difficulty: Moderate but river to ford.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418