CHRIS TITLEY falls for some marvellous pub grub right in the heart of York

The Golden Fleece is cunningly designed to ensnare the unwary tourist.

First, he spies the A-board outside.

"Why wander around looking confused and dazed, drop in and see York's oldest coaching inn," it suggests.

Curiosity kindled, the visitor peeks through the front door. He takes one step forward, and he's a goner.

The long corridor slopes down so sharply that as soon as customers cross the threshold they are propelled with unstoppable momentum from the street into the main room of the pub.

One moment, the tourist is in the sunshine, the next he's at the Golden Fleece bar being asked: "What can I get you?" Brilliant.

Landlord Adrian Wilkinson can take no credit for this tourist trap.

The Fleece's floors are uneven because it was built without foundations.

Presumably it has been slowly sinking for centuries - the pub's first mention in the York Archives dates from 1503.

Once a visitor finds himself accidentally at the bar, he should stay awhile.

There are two reasons to put off the ascent back to Pavement: the food and the drink.

My visit to the Golden Fleece came on a sticky Saturday evening at the end of a long, hot day.

Not the easiest conditions in which to keep real ale.

My partner Jo wanted something quick and cold, and opted for a bottle of Budweiser.

But I decided to place my trust in the hands of the Fleece's cellarman and ordered a pint of Theakston's XB. He didn't let me down.

The beer was excellent, as good as you would expect to drink on a cool spring day.

Which was just as well: the two drinks cost £4.30.

The Golden Fleece does not offer the most salubrious dining surroundings.

The decor is not, as far as I'm aware, mentioned in the 1503 record, but it certainly has its own long history.

Scientists could probably discover how long through nicotine dating techniques. Things are changing, however. A beer garden has recently been built at the back.

And Adrian has certainly refreshed the menu.

In his days in charge of the Spread Eagle in Walmgate, it was known for its superb food; after four years out of York he aims to re-establish that reputation at the Fleece.

The menu is already quite extensive, running to four pages.

It ranges from burgers and hot baguettes to Spanish paella and chicken chow mein.

Added to this is a specials board listing around a dozen dishes. We both chose our food from here.

Jo ordered deep-fried potato longboats (£4.50) and I could not resist the sound of the seafood chowder (£6.50).

We waited just over 20 minutes for the food to arrive.

It is prepared to order, using all fresh ingredients (the landlord professes an almost obsessive hatred for frozen peas).

These are bought locally, with meat from butcher David Taylor in Strensall, fish from Newgate Market and vegetables from the legendary Dick the Veg.

When the food arrived it smelt delicious.

We had to delay tasting it until we'd figured out how to get two huge platefuls of grub onto a small table. They don't stint at the Fleece.

My huge bowl contained large, moist chunks of tangy smoked haddock and other white fish in a delicious creamy sauce.

On top were two types of mussel, and slices of fresh crusty bread.

It was absolutely yummy. A real seafood- lover's delight. Jo was similarly impressed by her potato longboats.

The topping was a wonderful mix of smoked bacon, tomato, vegetables and mozarella cheese.

And there was just the right hint of English mustard, she remarked approvingly.

The main dishes were so large, and finished off so diligently, that we had no room for a pudding.

So I can only report that these include spotted dick and sticky toffee pudding (£2.95 each) and eight flavours of ice cream (£2.25).

This meant our total bill came to a little over £15.

To deploy a cheap innuendo, Adrian is known for his huge portions.

A big hit this summer has been his alcoholic milk shakes: flavoured milk, ice cream and a liqueur in a foot-high glass.

And he is looking for a giant frying pan in which to serve 18-inch Yorkshire puddings.

Chef Jacqui Askham is no doubt delighted by the prospect.

The only disadvantage of eating such large amounts of delicious food is it makes the climb back to the surface a little strenuous.

But we will be dropping in again soon.

Restaurant: The Golden Fleece

Address: Pavement, York

Telephone: 01904 625 171

Reviewed: August 7 1999

Food: Scrumptious

Value: Food excellent, drinks a little pricey

Service: Helpufl and unobtrusive

Ambience: Traditional British Pub