Lynne Martin falls under the spell of a pub with an very unusual menu

You know that sinking feeling when you open a menu and it is written in French and you only have a basic grasp of the language? Well it happened to me. I thought I had suddenly been transported to foreign shores, not just a few miles out of town to Bilton in Ainsty, near Wetherby.

What on earth was Unyan Bargyuz? Then the penny dropped and the fun began as we tried to translate all the weird, wonderful phonetic spellings of the dishes on offer.

It certainly made us take notice and read the menu properly. Blackboard speshuls were also in 'Biltonese' with sevverly abuzed haddok taking the prize for the worst description - I do hope they meant battered haddock.

A pint and a half of Theakston's in the Chequers Inn's comfy bar helped in our labours, and although we were strangers to these parts neither of us felt uncomfortable in a room full of locals who were waiting for the weekly quiz.

As it was quiz night, we decided to vacate our table and eat in the dining room, which like the bar is stuffed with interesting objects and bric a brac - all of which is for sale. So you can enjoy two of life's pleasures, shopping and eating, at one go.

And what a pleasure the food was. For starters Chris chose the Unyan Barguz, £2.75, which turned out to be that Indian restaurant favourite, onion bhajis. Served with a side salad, yoghurt and a chilli sauce with attitude, they were declared nice and spicy and just right.

I went for a favourite - Tatye shels, £3.45. From the menu I couldn't quite work out how you could stuff a potato shell with prawns as they usually come in wedges, but all was revealed when two half skins, fried to make the crispest of shells, packed with juicy prawns were put before me. A dressing of soured cream with dill and cucumber topped them off, along with a side dip of that hot chilli sauce - delicious and different.

'Tygur Prons', £6.90, was the next challenge for Chris. A mound of tiger prawns pan-fried in garlic with sliced peppers and topped off with a 'erb and kreem sorse' was set about with relish. Tasty and tender was the verdict on the prawns although he said he might have preferred rice to the new potatoes, carrots and peas which accompanied the dish.

I had no trouble deciphering 'filet stayke', £10.90, which I opted for in the chef's 'opwarve sorse'. A notice outside the pub states that all the meat served is produced locally and it was excellent - the French and Germans don't know what they are missing. A nice chunk of juicy fillet and plenty of tangy pepper sauce came with the same selection of vet as Chris's prawns.

Puddings according to the menu are 'all home made and vary according to the chef's mood - so you had better find out what sort of a mood he is in'. We were too full to ask, but that is the nature of The Chequers, it's fun and friendly and we'll definitely make a move to go again. I'm just glad the chef's cooking is far better than his speling!

Restaurant: The Chequers Inn

Address: Bilton in Ainsty, near Wetherby

Telephone: 01423 359066

Reviewed: October 18 1999

Food: Top pub grub with a good helping of imagination

Value: Very reasonable

Service: Friendly

Ambience: Warm and welcoming