The omens weren't good for SIMON RITCHIE at the Four Alls Inn restaurant in Flaxton Moor but some things improved as the night progressed

The Four Alls pub on the A64 is a place we had often driven past on the way to the coast but had never ventured inside. So on Tuesday evening we decided to give it a go after being told the restaurant had been refurbished by new owner Gillian Wiggle and a new chef installed.

But the night did not get off to a very good start.

We had barely sat down when the a group of four diners in the restaurant demanded to see the chef. The foursome were not happy with their fayre, especially the vegetables, and the broccoli in particular.

The waitress hurried to the kitchens, while the complainers huffed and puffed. We sat there, heads down and looking slightly embarrassed and wondering what we had let ourselves in for.

The waitress returned alone, with an apology and the promise that the food was on the house.

The foursome got up and left, leaving us to eat alone.

There were a few other diners in the lounge, but we decided to stay in the restaurant despite the irritating rumble of HVGs thundering along the A64. Thankfully, a rock CD was put on which managed to drown out the noise.

We decided to eat from the extensive menu and specials board rather than go for the table d'hote three-course menu, which came at a very reasonably priced £7.95.

For starters, or beginnings as they were described on the menu, I went for deep-fried lobster tails, only to be told the lobster was off.

"Our supplies come from Malton and because of the floods we have not been able to get any," said the lone waitress, who did a sterling job acting as sole barmaid as well.

My second choice, from quite an extensive 'beginnings' list, was mushroom and bacon pot (£2.95), although the butterfly king prawns, chicken tikka masala and tortilla chips topped with cheese were tempting.

The button mushrooms came with finely-chopped pieces of bacon and onions, floating in a very rich, creamy garlic sauce.

This was accompanied by a small, warm baguette and a tub of butter. It was tasty although a few more mushrooms wouldn't have gone amiss.

My partner Jayne, who had skipped starters, was impressed with the number of vegetarian options on offer for her main dish. Most places have one, or two at the most, but the Four Alls had six, and all reasonably priced at £4.95.

After much soul-searching she finally went for Italian mushrooms.

I was spoilt for choice for my 'middlings' (or main course to you and me).

I was tempted with the giant Yorkshire puddings, which came with a variety of fillings, and the steaks and chicken dishes were all reasonably priced.

In the end I went for an old favourite, pan fried swordfish steak with a garlic and herb butter (£7.50) and I went for vegetables and potatoes rather then chips and salad.

My quite large chunk of swordfish was cooked to perfection. The vegetables were, however, rather disappointing, although we learned later that it was the chef's night off.

The cauliflower was nice and crisp, but the accompanying strips of carrot and hot celery slices were rather limp and uninspiring.

The potatoes were a little overcooked and would have benefited from a knob of butter melted over them.

The mound of cold, carrot shavings by the side of the fish was bit of a mystery. There was no sign of any broccoli!

Jayne enjoyed her dish which consisted of mushrooms, tomatoes and herbs, topped with mozzarella cheese and crispy bread crumbs.

It had quite a tangy kick to it, something that could not be said of her accompanying salad. A bit of lettuce, a few tomatoes and a couple of cucumber slices all without dressing was bland and not very inventive.

For desserts, of which there was quite a choice, I went for pecan pie with cream, while Jayne chose lemon meringue pie. I had no complaints with mine, although Jayne was disappointed with hers and a bit bemused why the chef had squirted strawberry syrup over it.

Our meal, with a few drinks, came to just over £26, which was very reasonable.

The Four Alls has potential and could do well, but more thought needs to go into some of the dishes, especially the vegetables and salads.

Restaurant: The Four Alls Inn

Address: Malton Road, Flaxton Moor, York

Telephone: 01904 468233

Reviewed: March 20, 1999

Food: Fair to middling

Value: Reasonable

Service: Friendly and efficient

Ambience: Roadside pub