LYNNE MARTIN samples some great British pub grub

I am not quite sure what a Spotted Ox should look like, but this one had hanging baskets outside and was just what we were looking for - the epitome of a good English pub. You know what I mean - tasty food, excellent beer, a nice atmosphere and a welcoming smile. We immediately felt at home even though it was our first visit.

We slid into a bench seat (unfortunately sitting on a copy of a rival evening newspaper) clutching a couple of beers and set about finding our way around the extensive menu. You are literally spoilt for choice at this cracking little pub.

It was fairly busy already on this damp Tuesday evening. The Spotted Ox must be a well-kept secret by those in the know, we only found out about it by chance.

On offer is an array of mouth-watering choices, ranging from burgers with a wide variety of toppings to stomping big steaks, fish, pork and chicken done in a variety of ways.

We should have known better really when we saw the size of the meals being taken to other tables but couldn't resist a starter of calamari for me and garlic mushrooms for Chris.

The calamari with a squirt of lemon and a sprinkling of salt was delicious, tender and juicy encased in a light, crispy batter.

We did a deal, and for three calamari rings I was allowed to try some of Chris's mushrooms from the mountain piled in front of him.

They were covered in a fine, breaded crust and came with a garlicky dip - very tasty. I know this sounds daft but they actually tasted of mushrooms. The mass-produced variety bought from supermarkets often don't have that nice, earthy taste, but these did.

A short interval followed and we refreshed our glasses with half of Manic Mango from a brewery new to me - Brewers Kitchen - which was nice and hoppy, and a well-kept pint of Adnam's Broadside for Chris.

I was very tempted by the red snapper accompanied with a fruity salad and lemon and dill mayonnaise, or Peking-style chicken, but for England and St George, I set aside my fancy tastes and opted for the beef and Guinness pie. A cloud of puff pastry hid a dish of tender chunks of locally-produced beef in a rich, tasty gravy. Chips and peas completed this most English of meals - I just wish I could have eaten it all.

Chris went for the butterfly prawns and a good number landed, garnished with coleslaw, potato salad, green salad and chips complete with dip. He too was defeated and we sadly declined the offer of puddings.

The bill for this rather good food was £16. 95, plus £5.30 for two rounds of drinks. Excellent value.

As always the yardstick of how good somewhere is whether we'll go back, and yes we will, but they might have to change their reading matter first. Perhaps they will buy a copy of the Evening Press!

Restaurant: The Spotted Ox, Tockwith

Telephone: 01423 358387

Reviewed: April 22nd 2000

Food: good

Value: excellent

Service: friendly

Ambience: traditional