New Dawn

If I had to describe my idea of a typical country pub, the Sun at Colton would fit the bill perfectly. It's old, comfy, has bags of charm and character, but we were alarmed recently to hear it was up for sale and was probably going to be converted into a house.

Then we heard on the bush telegraph that some new people had taken over - a Scotsman, who had learned his skills as a chef all over the world, and his wife were now serving up some tasty treats at Colton. So we had to try it out.

The bar is well stocked with three hand-pulled ales on offer and while we were sitting enjoying a very moreish and well-kept guest ale, Fullers London Pride, we realised some subtle changes had taken place.

There is a lighter, brighter feel, a lot of the clutter has been taken away from above the main bar area, some of the furniture has been moved around, the old side bar is now another comfortable room and soft yellow curtains give a gentle sunny feel to the Sun.

The menu isn't huge, always a good sign that the food is really fresh, and it changes frequently, but with enough variety to suit most tastes and pockets, plus a range of steaks and grills.

I like starters - they often sound and taste more interesting than main courses - and the courgettes with tomatoes, mozzarella and mint didn't disappoint. Chris looked at his plate of spaghetti with oregano pesto and spicy sausage and thought he had ordered a main course - although it all vanished. Our dining companions for the night both went for the lentil soup with smoked bacon. It was, they said, thick, rich and very tasty.

And the starters set the standard for what was to come. My Thai-style beef salad arrived on a chunky square oriental platter, simply garnished with lettuce and white cabbage. My first thought was that I could do with some dressing on this, but the thin strips of beef marinated in lime, chilli, spring onion and coriander were a taste sensation. Hot, spicy, tangy and so very different from anything I've eaten for a long time and the coolness of the salad provided a perfect balance.

The men chose steaks: Chris a rump with pepper sauce and Murray a fillet. Both came beautifully presented and passed the steak test - tender and juicy and cooked just to their liking.

Averil didn't say much about her chicken. It was a plump breast served on creamed spinach with sunflower seeds and herb butter served with a dish of courgettes and carrots - the contented silence said it all.

We all declined puddings until we saw what was on offer. Homemade chocolate brule made with Belgian chocolate - well, who could resist?

I did. I went for the summer pudding and fresh cream which was delicious and fruity but I did keep looking at their dishes of thick chocolate brule with its topping of crisp, crackly caramel. Maybe next time.

The bill for the four of us, including a round of drinks, came to just over £70 - more expensive than an average bar meal but this was above-average, good-quality restaurant food served in a pub.

I like to think I have just experienced the dawn of a new era for the Sun.

Ye Olde Sun Inne, Main Street, Colton, just off the A64 halfway between York and Tadcaster. Telephone: 01904 744261.

Picture: Traditional charm at Ye Olde Sun Inne