DAVE STANFORD takes it easy in a city of scholars

OXFORD is 'that sweet city with her dreaming spires'. And also motorised school desks. Its famous golden stone university buildings have seen many of the world's leading statesmen and politicians, scientists, musicians, poets and writers pass through its doors.

No wonder then that the city has a distinct academic aura.

But that's not to say it lacks a sense of fun, epitomised by the Oxford Story, complete with the electric powered desks to take you on a comfortable ride through history.

Situated in Broad Street, the attraction brings 800 years of history to life, introducing the most famous sons and daughters of the university and tracing the sometimes uneasy relationship between town and gown.

It's unlikely the city's history undergraduates have gone along for the ride, but through its enlightened commentary relayed as you 'sit at your desk' and are transported around three floors, it brings sharply into focus the importance of the university to the city, and vice-versa.

Everyone's heard of Oxford University, but it is not until you visit that you realise just how much its influence, from architecture to night life, seeps from every pore of one of England's finest cities.

The Oxford Story, designed by the team that created the Jorvik Centre, is therefore an excellent introduction for it sets the scene for your visit without being too high-brow.

For while Oxford is world renowned as a seat of learning - quite literally in the case of the Oxford Story - it still has a lively, youthful, cosmopolitan feel.

Rather like York, its city centre is compact and means it is a honey-pot for shoppers and one of Oxford's real pleasures is its array of bookshops.

Its location makes it an ideal touring base too.

But with two theatres, concert venues, cinemas, comedy, jazz and literature festivals, combined with a variety of museums and a thriving night life, it is a city that needs time to explore.

A visit therefore shouldn't be rushed; a bit like a lazy lunch washed down by some fine wine.

You're certainly spoilt for choice in Oxford when it comes to wining and dining but our favourite place was the Quod Bar & Grill, situated in High Street.

On first appearance, with its contemporary designs, stone floor, and eye-catching artwork, it looks just another trendy wine-bar for which York has become a breeding ground in recent months.

You know the places; largely soulless havens for thirtysomethings, the complete antithesis of a traditional British boozer.

But the Quod Bar, given time, is different.

Its excellent food has a decidedly Italian influence, the staff are great and as you begin to sit comfortably you start to notice just what a mixed bag, young and old, take advantage of its hospitality to forge an unstuffy, relaxed atmosphere in which to dine.

Our excellent time in Oxford was made complete by our stay at the four star Four Pillars Hotel, situated half-a-mile - perfect walking distance - from Oxford city centre.

To be truthful, from the outside it was a rather imposing but characterless building.

And while it doesn't fall short in terms of facilities - it boasts a swimming pool, spa, sauna and steamroom and a fully-equipped gymnasium and games room - inside it is nothing out of the ordinary in terms of modern hotels.

It looks a relatively new establishment so given time may well develop that homely, welcoming feel.

But it was clean and tidy, the service efficient and the staff were helpful beyond the call of duty and that more than made up for the hotel's rather sterile demeanour.

And in anycase Oxford being the city it is it would be a crime to waste time loitering around a hotel foyer.

Accommodation: Very good

Food: Very good

Value for Money: Good

Things to do: Plenty for all

More information:

Quod Bar and Grill - High Street, Oxford Tel: 01865 202505

Oxford Spires Four Pillars Hotel - Abingdon Road, Oxford Tel: 01865 324324

www.four-pillars.co.uk

The Oxford Story - Broad Street, Oxford Tel: 01865 728822