Dan Rutstein finds one train service that isn't in crisis.

GOOD food and trains are unlikely bedfellows. But there was no trace of British Rail sandwiches at The Sidings Hotel and Restaurant when we popped in for dinner.

Eating out in these converted railway carriages is more than just a meal - it's an unforgettable experience.

From the moment I parked my Ford Escort, we were immersed in the wonderful world of trains.

We sat on old British Rail soft seats to have our pre-feast drinks: a pint of bitter and gin and tonic.

Surrounded by books, pictures, signs and stickers about trains as well as trainspotters, a train set and even train noises, this is a themed restaurant gone crazy.

Fortunately, as we discovered when our starters arrived, the train tendency for tardiness hasn't been adopted.

In fact, the service was rather swift. And I liked the practice of drinking in the lounge and then being called to the table when the food was ready.

For starters, I had Blink Bonny - gateau of smoked chicken and avocado with a garlic and coriander mayonnaise. The meat was cooked to perfection and, even though it looked over-mayonnaised, so delicious was the dressing that there could be no complaints.

The presentation smacked of a smart restaurant. Attention to detail was appreciated, although if my first course had arrived in a messy heap on my plate, it wouldn't have mattered. It would still have gone down as one of the best starters I have ever eaten.

My partner's Chiltern Lines - sliced glazed honey and mustard duckling breast with caramelised orange and port wine syrup - was of the same quality in taste and presentation.

The duck was exquisite and we ended up arguing about who would have it on our next visit.

Yes, after just one course we had vowed to become regulars.

Eating at The Sidings is not for the faint-hearted. You pay one price and you get four courses.

Charlie decided to play it safe and leave room for the rest of the meal by opting for an apple juice for her second course.

But I went for the only substantial dish offered for the second course, Cullen Skink - a Scottish smoked haddock and potato soup with fresh cream.

A wonderful choice.

It was thick without being stodgy, yet thin without being runny. It was the first time I'd eaten fish soup - may it always be this good.

And now to the main courses.

Could things get any better?

Charlie chose Heart of Midlothian - braised shoulder of lamb with hotpot potatoes and a rich madeira gravy. When it arrived, there was a huge hunk of lamb on the plate swimming in the most delightful of accompaniments.

We shared a selection of vegetables which were unexceptional: the only part of the meal that was.

The highlight of my meal had to be my Queen of Scots - pan fried venison steak accompanied by a chestnut dumpling and a cranberry and port jus.

I devoured every morsel of the delicious feast on my plate with great vigour and enjoyment.

The venison, my first taste of this meat, was second only to ostrich in texture and taste.

The enormous helping was cooked to perfection. I asked for well done, and that is what I must say to the chef.

Indeed, well done for the entire meal.

From the dessert menu we picked pineapple and malibu cheesecake and sticky toffee pudding with ice cream, which we could not fault.

Following dessert, we rolled, full as you could be, back to the lounge for coffee. The real thing of course.

The set price for the four-course meal was £27.95 per person. With drinks, our bill came to £60.80. Never has reviewing a restaurant been such a pleasure. I have wanted to eat at The Sidings since moving to York five years ago. I hope I don't have to wait another five before I return.

-The Sidings Hotel and Restaurant, South End, Shipton-by-Beningbrough. Tel: 01904 470221.

Food: exceptional

Service: courteous

Value: worth it

Ambience: on track

Disable access