MAXINE GORDON reports on the York designer taking London Fashion Week by storm

BETTYS tea rooms may be a York institution, but for designer Scott Henshall they are also an inspiration. "I love Bettys. It's my favourite place in the entire world," enthuses the 25-year-old fashion designer, who showed his Spring 2002 collection at the prestigious London Fashion Week yesterday.

Englishness is the bedrock of Scott's designs - and you don't get more English than afternoon tea at York's most famous caf.

"I'd love to do a fashion show in there," he says excitedly.

Bettys sponsored Scott's very first fashion show in London, which was in conjunction with Wedgewood, another English institution, and featured models parading around with teapots on their heads to the sound of smashing teacups.

Such theatrical flourishes are de rigueur at the high-profile designer shows, and no more so than at London Fashion Week, which showcases the wacky and wonderful in equal measure.

Scott, who was born in York and still has family living in Strensall and Sheriff Hutton, pulled off a publicity coup at yesterday's show by securing Big Brother winner Brian Dowling as compere and It Girl-turned-model Lady Victoria Hervey as a model.

And there was another famous Victoria at the event - Posh Spice Victoria Beckham was watching from the front row with footballing hubbie David, whom Scott describes as "my good friends".

"I met them through my hair stylist, who did Beckham's famous mohican crop" he explains. "I began making clothes for them, which was great because it's nice to do clothes for people you like. Also, they are like the new Royal Family, so it's fun to dress them."

Madonna and Kylie Minogue are other celebrities who regularly wear Scott's designs, much to his delight. "I am obsessed by Madonna. She was a trendsetter in the Eighties and Nineties and an icon today. She is an expert at manipulating the power of the image," says Scott.

But nothing gave him as much joy, he admits, as seeing his clothes turn up in the TV sitcom, Absolutely Fabulous.

"They are wearing my clothes in the new series - some of my T-shirts with beads. Never mind being in Vogue, being in Absolutely Fabulous is the best!"

Scott's life at the cutting edge of the international fashion world couldn't be more different from his upbringing in North Yorkshire.

Born in York, his parents Mavis and Nigel lived in Sheriff Hutton during his early childhood. He attended school in Richmond, firstly Scorton Grammar School, then the Assumption School. Although his parents now live in Hartlepool, his gran, Joyce Smith, still lives in Strensall.

Scott says fashion was his calling from an early age.

"I was very obsessed with image and clothes; the way my mum looked, how she dressed - from about the age of five. I couldn't really imagine doing anything else," he says.

Even as a teenager, his talent for design shone through. He won numerous awards - many of which were documented by the Evening Press.

For two years running, he won a prize in the Lloyds Bank Fashion Challenge - on both occasions designing for his hero, Madonna.

His rise to the top has been swift. Signs of his future success were apparent before he had even left the University of North-umbria in 1997 with a first class degree in fashion design and textiles under his belt.

His final year collection was based on the theme 'Made In England' and was backed by Wedgewood which provided the inspiration for some of his prints and accessories.

During his last six months at college, he won a competition with the British Fashion Council to revamp Laura Ashley which led to a six-month stint with the company.

Liaisons with other leading names in English fashion followed, including Liberty, Barbour, Gossard and Cath Kidston.

His love affair with all things English is what defines him today as a designer, he argues. "I am an English designer. My designs are based on what is best about British style. I want to take the traditional emblems of Britain and reinterpret them in a modern way," he says.

And wowing women rather than the paparazzi is the aim. "The most important thing for me is to design new and exciting clothes that women want to wear. It's fine to be avant-garde but selling wearable clothes is more important," says Scott, who designs for his own label, Scott Henshall, his Japanese brand Revisitation, as well as being creative director at Mulberry, another English fashion powerhouse.

His clothes are stocked at 60 stores across the world, including Lynx Womenswear in Harrogate, which has just taken delivery of his new autumn/winter range.

Red, white and blue are mixed with black as the dominant colours of the collection, which again evoke the theme of Englishness.

Prints are based on that much-loved English pastime, the crossword puzzle, and black and white word-search patterns appear on suits, knitwear and dresses.

Cashmere plays an important role in all of Scott's work, and this year is no exception. Cashmere jumpers have slashed sleeves with buttons, while dollar and pound signs add a humorous touch to classic knitwear.

The puzzle and clues theme is taken further with references to spies and espionage, with slim suites complete with cut-away shoulders, slouchy shawl-collared waistcoats and trench coat detailing.

Scott will be hosting a fashion show of his autumn collection at the Harrogate store on October 4 - giving customers the chance to see his clothes and ask him about his work and career. It also gives Scott a chance to come home.

"It's always nice to come back," he says. "It's a great feeling when you come back on the train and walk past York Minster. It's very special to me - my favourite place."

Tickets for the Scott Henshall event on Thursday, October 4 can be obtained from Lynx Womenswear, 20 West Park, Harrogate, by telephoning 07798 904 466. Admission is free but places are limited so it is advised to reserve tickets.