THE danger with being too comfortable is that you turn into a slob. This was the effect that Meltons Too, the new caf bar/ bistro on Walmgate, had on me.

That is not in any way a criticism. It is simply that from the moment I walked upstairs into the caf's main dining area, I felt so relaxed I forgot to behave properly.

Our table for two was next to the banister beside the first floor stairwell. I quickly discovered that leaning from my seat to hook one arm over this banister was sublimely comfortable. Before I knew it, I was happily slurping my delicious pea and mint soup one-handed, left arm hooked blissfully over banister. It drew a few disapproving glares from my better half: but no one else seemed in the least bit bothered. That's what I call dining in style.

Since Meltons Too - the spin-off from Melton's Restaurant in Scarcroft Road, York - opened late last year, I've peered through the windows a few times.

At first glance there's not much to entice. The few plain sofas and tables visible appear uninspiring and the simple all-day menu pasted up in the window - with its selection of brunches, Light Bites, Quick Bites or Big Bites - over-simple and even off-putting.

But Meltons Too has that name to live up to and it's definitely worth persevering with. That downstairs room is little more than the reception. Go in, and you'll soon be led through to the gloriously quirky and yet quintessentially English dining areas proper on the first and second floor of the former Ellerker's shop.

You can't book at Meltons Too - not unless there are at least seven of you. Otherwise, it's strictly turn up and wait for a table. My wife and I, however, waltzed in at just gone 8pm one Saturday evening, and didn't have to wait at all. Smoking or non-smoking? inquired the girl behind the counter, before leading us up the ancient, winding, polished wood staircase to dining heaven above.

The upper dining floors at Meltons Too have a unique charm.

There's something of the rural pub about them, and something of contemporary modern chic.

Ancient wooden beams share space on walls and ceiling with exposed metal air-conditioning.

Some interior walls, between beams, are plastered and whitewashed: elsewhere, ancient brickwork is artlessly exposed.

The broad stairway winding up into the middle of the first floor creates a feeling of space. The whole is dimly lighted with odd-shaped wall brackets; and each table - minimalist squares of plain, pale-coloured wood - has its own simple candle. It might not work for everyone, but I felt instantly at home, despite the small caf chairs.

The restaurant was pleasantly full and buzzing, without being too loud, when we arrived. Lili and I puzzled over the menu for a moment, checked it was OK to order a Light Bite as starter followed by a Big Bite as main course, then ordered.

For starters I went for the Pea and Mint soup (£2.20) - chalked up on a blackboard as Soup of the Day - while Lili, after a little persuasion from me, opted for the Thai Fish Soup (£3.10).

They arrived quickly: substantial bowls of steaming soup, each on an odd little triangular tray. The Pea and Mint soup was heavenly: warming and tasty, the mint deliciously clean and light, complementing the warm flavour of pea beautifully. Lili's Thai Fish Soup was authentically exotic, a sweet soup-base of coconut milk laced with the flavours of lemongrass, ginger and chilli, and generously filled with sliced vegetables and chunks of tender white fish. It was, sadly, a little sweet for Lili's taste - my fault for insisting she try it - so I had to polish off most of it myself. Mmm.

For the main course, Lili chose the Confit of Duck with mash and diable sauce (£10.50) while I opted for Green Thai Chicken Curry with ginger, lemongrass and garlic (£8.90).

Lili's duck arrived in a large, flared bowl: two legs of duck, preserved in salt and stewed slowly until the meat was dropping off the bone, served over a bed of mash. It was, Lili confirmed, delicious - quite salty, but that is how she likes her food. I tried a forkful of her mash, and had to agree. Excellent.

My Thai Green Curry arrived in two bowls; one containing the curry itself, the other fragrant boiled rice flavoured with coriander. At first I was disappointed: the curry tasted too similar to Lili's Thai Fish Soup that I had had to finish. But it was one of those dishes that got better with each mouthful. The chicken itself had little flavour, but the sliced and shredded vegetables were deliciously tasty, and one by one the various flavours in the curry sauce began to reveal themselves. By the time I finished, I was gasping theatrically with pleasure after each mouthful.

For dessert, I chose the lemon tart (£2.85), which proved to be deliciously light, clean and tart - the perfect palate cleanser - while Lili tried the mulled fruit salad (£3.40). It was the one real disappointment. Lili had wanted plain fruit salad, but they weren't able to offer it. The mulled fruit salad came already prepared, the waitress said apologetically.

Lili tried it anyway, but found it a little sweet and overpowering. I had to agree.

But that couldn't spoil what had been an excellent meal. I finished with a decaff cappuccino, and the whole meal, including a pint of Stella for me and an apple juice for Lili, came to £36.75. Great value for food of this quality in such relaxed surroundings. I'll be back.

Meltons Too, 25 Walmgate, York. Tel 01904 629222.

Updated: 09:03 Saturday, February 09, 2002