JUST a few yards from one of York's busiest drinkers' thoroughfares, the Akash Tandoori Restaurant is hardly off the beaten track. Tucked in between the Viking Moathouse Hotel and North Street's junction with Micklegate, the Akash is known as one of the city's longest-established Indian restaurants.

So it was strange to find it practically empty when we arrived on a weekday evening to sample what it had to offer.

Maybe it was because it was the Christmas holiday season and people were feasting on less spicy fare elsewhere with their relatives or office colleagues; maybe it was too early in the evening for big parties of curry eaters or maybe it was simply just a quiet night.

But it seemed a shame as the service and food at the Akash were perfectly adequate for an Indian meal out in York, judging by the meals we enjoyed.

When we arrived at around 8pm, the service was almost too attentive - coats hung up, table found, chairs pulled out, candles lit, menus presented and drinks orders taken by smart-suited waiters within seconds.

The Akash is a small, comfortable restaurant, seating just 36, so even if you are on your own (as we were once two other tables had emptied within half an hour) it's still fairly cosy.

The decor is traditionally elaborate, with the tables covered in claret and blue and decorated with vases of silk flowers, and with the walls alternating between mirrors and bright murals of Indian landscapes.

There was more than enough to choose from on the extensive menu, which had a section allocated to all the main course dishes you would expect. Each section included a vegetarian option and many dishes were priced at around £5 or less.

We had ordered a pint of lager each and began with four poppadoms (50p each) and a pickle tray (50p per person) which arrived very quickly.

Before they were done, the waiters were back again with our starters. I had gone for Meat Samosas (£2.65) and my dining partner Mike for Vegetable Pakora (£2.50). Both were warm and crispy, but I thought mine could have been more spicy.

There was a much more comfortable pause before the main courses arrived, which was just as well, as by this time I was starting to feel quite full, and for the rest of the evening, the service was a lot more relaxed.

I chose Chicken Rogan Josh (£4.75), my usual, and it tasted fine. Just spicy enough, the chicken tender and the coriander leaves and tomato pieces very fresh. Mike's Vegetable Korma (£4.20) also met with approval and we shared a naan bread (£1.55), which was hot and not too heavy, and a colourful Egg Pilau Rice (£2.20).

We had just enough room left to share a banana ice cream dessert to finish with, which was pleasant enough, if nothing special.

Together with two Irish coffees and another two lagers, the final bill came to £34.75, good value considering the amount we had consumed.

It was hard to judge what the atmosphere would have been like had the restaurant been full, but the food was good and the service helpful and efficient. Not the most outstanding Indian meal ever, but I certainly had no complaints and left feeling quite satisfied.

Akash Tandoori Restaurant, North Street, York, tel: 01904 633550.