The Jefferson Arms, Main Street, Thorganby, York,

"Changed a bit, hasn't it", he said proudly, guessing us to be on a return visit. We'd never been before, but the gleamingly-new interior design overload still made us do a double take.

Driving out to Thorganby, in York's satellite belt of wealthy commuter villages, I'd vaguely expected a fairly traditional country pub, hopefully with a nice line in posh nosh.

From the front, the Jefferson Arms could be someone's house - deceptively - it stretches a long way back, and you make your way up through what looks like it will be a pleasant little beer garden in summer.

Then through the door, and bang, you're in what appears to be Laurence Llewellyn-Bowen's local.

The tiny bar area has been totally done out with a very modern, vast gleaming metallic bar and deep grey-blue furnishings. (Although bizarrely, there's a stuffed stag's head and some historical pictures up).

But that's not where it ends - the imposing restaurant itself is fitted out in a slightly-confusing modern take on country house hotel style, in golds and deep blues, with big fireplaces and bigger ornaments. Then there's a non-smoking lounge reminiscent of a gentleman's club, and an uninhabited conservatory area, which again, will come into its own in the summer.

But enough interior design, this is Eating Out, not Changing Rooms. The landlord calmed our befuddlement by asking us if we were smokers, and when my human-chimney dining companions owned up, we were seated in the bar to peruse the menu. (The restaurant itself is completely non-smoking). The menu is long, if not adventurous, the usual categories of steaks, poultry, fish and a limited vegetarian choice, and a sheet of the day's specials.

As my usual Eating Out companion Vix had temporarily been transformed into a mountain of paperwork with faint cries for help coming from within, our foody friends Sam and Emily had stepped into the breach for the evening.

We made our choices, and after they'd finished puffing, were shown through to the restaurant. Aside from the keen-to-impress landlord there was only one young waitress on, but as there was only a handful of other parties in, (as you'd expect from a new restaurant on a Tuesday evening), service was prompt and friendly.

Sam and Em weren't impressed by the choice of starters, an odd mix of pub favourites like scampi and onion rings amid the more upmarket options. I went posh with the goat's cheese with redcurrant and port topping (£4.95), which was warm and tasty, if a little pricey for what you got.

My companions were less impressed. Veggie Sam went for the onion rings (£3.95), which, he said, he'd have been perfectly pleased with if they cost a pound from a chip shop.

Em ruled her garlic mushrooms with bacon in a creamy sauce with a warm baguette just OK.

We were feeling mildly worried now that the main courses would be a flop, and, I'm afraid, the confusing signals of the interior (posh hotel? trendy bar? country pub?) and the newness of the whole place, were stopping us from relaxing.

But, I'm pleased to report, the Jefferson's chef saved our evening with the main courses.

Em's loin of spring lamb, again with port and redcurrant sauce, with buttered spinach and bacon, at £14.95, came from the pricey end of the specials menu, but she was impressed. Plenty of tender, pink meat, with the original touch of being cooked into crispy crackling on top. Sam, a long-sufferer of the token veggie meals offered in pubs, had been fearing the bog-standard from his mushroom stroganoff (£8.95), but was pleasantly surprised, ruling it tasty with top-notch ingredients. My chicken breast with stilton cheese and bacon sauce (£9.95) was again a very good version; impressively tender and full of flavour, the sauce was very tasty and everything was of a good quality. Further plus points came from the veg. We got a good supply of nicely done, good-quality vegetation, and a choice of new potatoes or the very good homemade chips. Seriously stuffed, we forsook the dessert menu for coffee in the bar so the smokers could feed their cravings.

Word of mouth about the new-look Jefferson's is spreading, the landlord proudly informed me as I settled the bill (£65.05 total for three people, including two beers, two glasses of wine, a bottle of water and two cafetieres of coffee).

At the moment it is a rather bewildering mass of design ideas, looking for an identity to settle into. If they play to their strengths - the good food, pleasant village setting and friendly service, I hope they find their niche.

The Jefferson Arms, Main Street, Thorganby, York, tel: 01904 448316.

Fact file:

Food: good main courses

Service: friendly

Value:a bit pricey

Ambience: overwhelming

Disabled access: no

Updated: 09:04 Saturday, May 04, 2002