Mike Laycock and family visit an historic coaching inn for lunch

WITH its splendid tended garden, wood-panelled walls and historic staircase, the Malt Shovel at Oswaldkirk feels more like an old manor house than a pub.

So it was not a surprise to discover from an information panel in the bar that this grade II listed building started life in 1610 as a manor house, before becoming a coaching inn and pub for the past 300 years.

It may once have been on a primary coaching route but you could easily miss the Malt Shovel nowadays. You've probably driven through the edge of Oswaldkirk many times on your way along the B1363 from York to Helmsley, but you have to turn left into the main village street to spot the pub. Believe me, it's worth visiting.

It is built in a lovely location on the edge of an escarpment looking out over the Vale of York. It faces southwards away from the road, and its large, pretty garden is a real sun-trap that you could probably sit in on a fine winter's day.

It was a glorious August day when I took my family out to the pub for lunch, and we sat outside, pleasant though it was indoors.

I had gone to the bar and already started ordering when I had an unexpected shock - something that on another day would have forced us to abandon our meal out. A sign near the bar warned that neither credit cards nor debit cards can be accepted at the Malt Shovel. I have rather come to rely on my flexible friend to pay up when I eat out, and this came as a shock. After all it is 2002, not 1610. Fortunately, I had enough cash on me.

And so to the menu. From a selection of starters, I chose the soup of the day, orange and carrot soup for £2.25. My wife and son both went for button mushrooms in a creamy garlic sauce, for the same price. My daughter didn't fancy anything and passed on this round.

The soup tasted good, and it was accompanied by a roll which was suitably fresh, warm and crusty. The sauce with the mushrooms was really creamy, and proved a little rich for my son, so I polished his off after I had finished my soup.

For the main course, I couldn't resist the spinach and ricotta cannelloni, served with salad and chips, for £5.25. It was absolutely delicious, washed down with a pint of Ayingerbrau lager. My wife asked for chicken curry and rice for £5.50, and found it neither too hot nor too mild, but appreciated her sparkling mineral water all the same. My son is a pizza addict, and there was never any doubt that he would go for the pepperoni pizza, for £4. He is also quite a discerning pizza addict. So what was his verdict? "It's OK," he said, not raving but quite satisfied.

My daughter always, but always, chooses chicken dinosaurs on such visits to the pub. Sorry, said the barmaid, no dinosaurs left. But there was no need to panic. They did have chicken nuggets, served with those old favourites, chips and beans. My daughter tucked in, happy that she didn't have to eat the sort of thing Daddy was having.

I was pretty full but determined to sample one of the puddings, selecting profiteroles and cream for £2.75, while my son asked for chocolate sponge. The profiteroles were fine, the cream plentiful. My son found the sponge too rich, so I managed to finish that off as well.

The bill for the four, including drinks, came to £38.05, pretty acceptable for a very enjoyable meal for four in most pleasant surroundings, with friendly service.

Fact file:

Food: Good

Service: Friendly

Value: Reasonable

Ambience: Georgeous

No Disabled access

Malt Shovel, Oswaldkirk. Further information 01439 788461.

Updated: 08:45 Saturday, September 14, 2002