In the first of two reports on the Channel Islands, MARTIN JARRED relaxes in beautiful Guernsey

LOW-COST flights to Europe have really taken off in the last few years. For a matter of a few quid you can jet over the Channel to any number of continental destinations, and Leeds and Bradford Airport will soon be joining the budget brigade with Jet 2's new network opening up in February.

It is a boom market, but as travellers take to the European skies in greater numbers how many would look down and consider a visit to small group of islands off the coast of France - the Channel Islands?

With no low-cost airlines like Go and Ryanair landing at either Jersey or its smaller neighbour, Guernsey, you would be forgiven for thinking that tourism in the Channel Islands would be suffering.

Far from it.

Their markets remain buoyant, with the British - particularly the older visitors - remaining steadfastly loyal. Guernsey, in particular, has shot near the top of the "must do list" of German tourists.

Surprisingly, German visitors to Guernsey outnumber the French, considering the island is only 30 miles from the coast of Britanny.

Guernsey is like home abroad. It is English-speaking and uses Sterling, yet the road and place names are in French.

Small it may be, but Guernsey is blessed with some superb restaurants. Seafood is high on many a menu including that of the award-winning restaurant at L'Atlantique Hotel in Perelle Bay.

Guernsey is remarkably laid back and, while it may lack essential sights, its 2,000 hours of sunshine a year make it an ideal place to chill out. With a speed limit of 35mph (25mph in the main town of St Peter Port) you find you have no option but to relax.

St Peter Port may nod off at night but is a great place to people-watch during the day, with ferries heading to and from the beautiful neighbouring isle of Sark, Jersey and the English and French coasts.

Sark, in particular, is a haven of tranquility, with its strict 'no cars' policy and stunning walks and views.

In 1855, Guernsey welcomed into exile the French writer and political figure Victor Hugo and the island was to provide the inspiration for many of his major works, including Les Miserables.

Hugo spent 15 years on Guernsey and the 200th anniversary of his birth this year saw the local tourism department launch the Victor Hugo Trail, enabling visitors to follow in his footsteps.

You can check out where he lived, his granite statue in Candie Gardens and even a small island he bought which can be reached on foot at low tide.

Car, bus or bike will get you round the island to a string of unspoilt beaches, of which L'Ancresse, with its natural golden curve, is regarded as the jewel in Guernsey's crown.

The tides are so huge that each bay takes on a different character depending on whether the sea is in or out, so if you are planning a walk across to Lihou Island in the north-east corner of Guernsey make sure you'll be able to get back.

Guernsey won't get the pulses racing. It is a place to absorb and take in the scenery - both coastal and inland - which will appeal to people wanting to pull out of the fast lane for a while.

Fact file:

Martin Jarred stayed at L'Atlantique Hotel, Perelle Bay, St Saviours, GY7 9NA Tel: 01481 264056 email enquiries@perellebay.com.

It includes a heated outdoor pool, two bars and complimentary car hire.

For further information on Guernsey contact Guernsey Tourist Board, PO Box 23, St Peter Port, Guernsey, Channel Islands, GY1 3AN. Tel: 01481 723552.

Email: enquiries@guernseytouristboard.com

Updated: 09:34 Saturday, December 28, 2002