MAXINE GORDON heads down Mexico way for a fun night out... in Clifford Street, York

THE bitter cold and dark winter night is forgotten in an instant as you cross the threshold of Fiesta Mehicana, York's Mexican restaurant.

Hot colours and Latin memorabilia fight to grab your attention, while the music and chatter forewarn you that you are in for anything but a quiet night.

It was 7.15pm on a Saturday and the place was packed with a queue forming to the doorway. There were three of us - which proved to be our magic number because the waiter promptly ushered us downstairs to a coveted table.

It had been at least three or four years since my last visit to Fiesta Mehicana... and nothing seemed to have changed.

The punters upstairs proved it was just as popular as ever and the bursts of laughter and excited chat from the surrounding tables - along with the odd stray balloon floating our way - indicated this was a place to party. And there wasn't a student in sight. The clientele is made up of all ages; safe to say, most will be young at heart.

The more is definitely the merrier with Fiesta Mehicana, so surround yourself with a few chums. It's not really the place for a romantic dinner for two. One other piece of advice: you can't book a table in the evening, so be prepared to turn up and have a drink or two in the bar while you wait.

And the waiting game doesn't end there. Once we had ordered our meals, we were told our main meals would take 45 minutes to arrive - another good reason to turn up with plenty of good company. But we didn't mind. The waiter was friendly and apologetic and brought drinks and starters fairly promptly. We ordered wine and beer, although there is a tempting cocktail menu available and anyone looking for an authentic Mexican experience (and not worried about the state of their heads the next day) should try a Margherita or two.

For starters, we ordered dishes to share: a bean dip (£3.10) and guacamole (£3.95) served with corn chips. They were the prefect accompaniment to the Mexican beer Sol, served cold in the bottle with the obligatory quarter of lime to be squeezed into the lager.

The guacamole (made from avocado but resembling mushy peas) was rich and smooth. The light-brown bean and garlic dip tasted better than it looked... and we were soon asking for some more chips to finish off the bowlfuls.

More drinks were ordered before our main dishes arrived.

Now here's the rub about Mexican grub... you've got to look beyond what you see. The staples of Mexican fare - pasty-white pancake-like tortilla wraps, mashed veggies and pulses, melted cheese and the odd splash of sour cream and salsa (spicy tomato sauce) - may not look like the most appetising food on the chopping block, but appearances can be deceptive.

Take my main course. The chicken burrito (£8.45) was a tortilla filled with chicken and sweetcorn, smothered in cheese, which had melted into a congealed gloop. But it was surprisingly tasty: the chicken firm yet flavoursome, the sweetness and crunch of the corn contrasting nicely with the warm, creamy cheese. I asked for salsa rather than sour cream on the side and this added a fiery edge.

My two chums are vegetarians, catered for handsomely in the Fiesta Mehicana menu. They picked a veggie Chimichanga (£8.25), a flour tortilla packed with cheese and refried beans and deep fried. It comes with rice, salsa and sour cream. The other selection was a vegetarian tostada (£6.45), a bed of lettuce with a corn tortilla and the usual suspects - sweetcorn, salsa, cheese and sour cream. My friends said their dishes were really tasty, and filling - so much so we passed on desserts

By the end of the meal, we had caught the relaxation bug which seems to permeate Fiesta Mehicana. We sat finishing our drinks and chatting for a good half an hour after our table was cleared. No waiters pestered us to buy more drinks or ask us to vacate the table, even though there were probably hungry diners waiting upstairs.

The service throughout the evening was of the highest standards: friendly, helpful and efficient. Our bill came to £42.55, which was quite good value. And we were impressed with the comment card handed out by staff, asking for our views on service, food, value and any suggestions we might have. Equally impressive is the children's menu, with a choice of Mexican fare or tea-time favourites such as baked potato and chicken nuggets for £3.45 which includes a soft drink.

So, if you're not in a rush, and feel in a party mood, a trip down Fiesta Mehicana way is recommended.

Food: tasty

Service: excellent

Value: reasonable

Ambience: party

Disabled access: No

Fiesta Mehicana Clifford Street, York. Tel: 01904 610243

Maxine visited on Saturday, February 15, 2003

Restaurant reviewers aim to be fair and accurate. Any comments on this review should be addressed to Chris Titley, Features Content Editor,

Evening Press, 76-86 Walmgate, York, YO1 9YN or e-mail features@ycp.co.uk

Updated: 16:31 Friday, February 28, 2003