Appearances can be deceptive, as Martin Jarred discovers on entering a luxurious haven set in the woodlands and meadows of Ayrshire.

ENTERING Enterkine House is to step in to a luxurious haven. The secluded white 1930s house is perched at the top of a long, winding tree-lined drive overlooking the Ayr valley.

From the outside it hardly looks like an architectural masterpiece and seems out of kilter with its position in 310 acres of Scottish woodland and meadows; but appearances can be deceptive.

Once over Enterkine's five-star threshold it soon becomes obvious why the Ayrshire's eating out aficionados love the place.

Not only can they dine on top young chef Douglas Smith's latest creations but they can do so in great style in intimate surroundings. Pre-dinner drinks and canaps in front of a log fire with attentive, but discreet, staff always on hand to help.

But Jenny and I were there to sample the Enterkine experience for a weekend break, staying in one of six elegant rooms.

It was a spacious suite with a queen-sized bed and large bathroom with a wonderfully deep bath and power shower - just the job to blow away the travel cobwebs.

Moreover, it was one of the few country house hotels to pass the hairdryer test.

"Yess!", said Jenny, brandishing the hairdryer in triumph. Most hotels of this quality provide hairdryers, but to have one where it could be plugged in to be used while sitting down in front of a dressing table is amazingly rare.

So often Mrs J has discovered that plugs are so far away from mirrors that she has to be a contortionist or that she has to stand up to dry off her locks. It may seem a small point but Enterkine scores with this eye for detail.

Wellington boots for guests inside the front door, whisky decanter at reception, oval book-lined library, chess set in the corner of one of the receptions rooms - they are all welcoming touches.

Enterkine, a member of Grand Heritage Hotels, has a formidable reputation for food, having won the Macallan Taste of Scotland Rural Restaurant of the Year Award last year.

Diners travel for many miles to taste the delights from Douglas Smith's kitchen and the selection of ice cream, which includes a stunning marshmallow flavour.

The quality of the food is in keeping with the surroundings, with succulent grilled loin lamb the best I have tasted; but it seemed odd that we had to ask for a vegetarian option, which was available, but not on the menu.

For those who can handle it, a full Ayrshire breakfast, including tattie scones, is available in the morning.

The area's attractions include Culzean Castle and its spectacular gardens and walks - just the thing after an Enterkine feast.

It is also Robert Burns country with the farmer-poet born just down the road at Alloway, an attractive town that has become virtually a shrine to the man who penned "Auld Lang Syne".

For golfers, Royal Troon and Turnberry are not far away while a trip along the 'Electric Brae' on the A719 between Dunure and Croy Brae is a real oddity.

You can stop your car on a hill on the road, leave the brakes off, and very slowly your car will roll up the hill. Why?

The configuration of the land of either side of the road provides an optical illusion, making it look as though the slope is going the other way.

Just like Enterkine House... appearances can be deceptive.

Fact file

Enterkine House, Annbank By Ayr, Ayrshire KA6 5AL

Telephone: 01292 520580

Fax: 01292 521582

E-mail: mail@enterkine.com

A double room, bed, breakfast and evening meal is £110 per couple.

Updated: 09:22 Saturday, May 17, 2003