Going into orbit

I WAS in the mood for a short ride and so chose a 20-mile trip that I had planned as a sort of "cyclists' M25 of Harrogate". As it turned out, the route took somewhat longer than anticipated because of the complexity of the navigation and numerous points of interest along the way. Far from being a road to hell this was an orbit of discovery.

From Knaresborough I set off anti-clockwise towards northern Harrogate on the cycleway dedicated to Beryl Burton OBE, seven times world cycling champion. I made my first stop at a footbridge beside a ford in Knox which is a picture.

The route then starts to slip in and out of the suburbs like a fox in the night. While exploring a lane on the western fringes, I came across two towers side by side, one as round as the other is square. As I pondered the purpose of the square tower, the owner of the house semi-detached to it came out and invited me to tour the tower.

It is the Harlow Hill Tower Observatory built in 1829 and now Grade II listed. I plodded up the 92 steps in semi-darkness because the few tiny windows have been sealed off at the request of neighbours. At the top, 700ft above sea level, you can see as far as the Humber Bridge and York Minster on a clear day. Through an old pair of battleship binoculars mounted on a BBC TV tripod I could even see right into Ripley Castle. During the Second World War the tower was used a machine gun nest set up to protect Leeds.

Council owned, the tower is now the headquarters of the Harrogate Astronomical Society and is open to the public four days a year. Incidentally, the ornate round structure next door is a water tower built precisely a century ago. "It rather gets in the way of the view but I'm very grateful for the water supply," said my guide.

With that it was back into the country. Just after The Squinting Cat pub - an ideal stop for anyone with children - the view over the Crimple Beck valley towards Almscliffe Crag is superb. For a moment you could be deep in the Dales.

I then took advantage of roads that became redundant after the construction of the Harrogate bypass. Amidst them is the peaceful village of Follifoot. Its name is thought to derive from the Norse meaning "place of the horse fight" indicating that the village was possibly used as a centre for training horses and the staging of fights, a sport made popular by the Vikings that continued into medieval times.

Horses still feature prominently. Opposite a riding school lives an artist advertising fine animal portraits. I thought she perhaps ought to link up with the wonderfully-named Bilton Hilton, a pets' hotel I had passed earlier in Old Bilton. Leaving Follifoot, I passed an enclosure for less coveted beasts: a circular animal pound dating from 1688.

The highlight of this circuit goes back even further in time having been mentioned in the Domesday Book. I refer to Plompton, a hamlet previously part of a manor held by the de Plompton family for 700 years. It was sold to Daniel Lascelles in 1760 who demolished the mansion and other buildings with the intention of building a new house. He never completed the work and moved to nearby Goldsborough Hall. All that remain are the pleasure grounds and lake which form Plompton Rocks. Thankfully, they have been maintained and now provide a magical place to explore.

Looking at the huge, bulbous rocks, like those at Brimham, the lilies on the lake and the little wooden jetties, the thought occurred that this place would be ideal for a re-enactment of Swallows And Amazons. As I brushed through bracken and rhododendrons and crept around fissures in the rocks, I half expected to come across Roger and Titty on a secret mission. Around one corner was a thick wooden door with a barred window that begged inspection. Through it I could see a rowing boat, one oar propped lazily on a ring, in a tunnel-like boathouse.

It came as no surprise to find out later that Plumpton has been the location for various TV productions including Blake's Seven, Heartbeat and, bizarrely, the Muppet Show.

The ideal way to end this ride back in Knaresborough is to cycle along the traffic-free Abbey Road which I can recommend from previous explorations. In between the luxurious modern houses are two curious abodes. The 18th century House In The Rock is just that. Previous names were Swallows Nest and Fort Montagu, both of which are very apt for such a lofty structure. Right down at river level you will find St Robert's Cave. With its sitting-out area it's very bijou - if you're Stig Of The Dump. Reputed for his herbal cures and a friend of the poor, the saint died here a hermit.

Pressed for time, having spent so long at Plumpton, I turned left rather than right at the bridge over the River Nidd and completed my journey under overhanging yellow cliffs. A row of ice-cream shops and cafs beside the water completed the seaside feel.

Directions

Push bike over bridge and R up Beryl Burton cycleway. After car park and sign to Nidd Gorge R up Tennyson Av then, as road bends to the L, R up Hall Lane (which becomes Bachelor Gdns) and R up Knox Lane. Push bike through No Through Road sign over footbridge and L up Knox Mill Lane.

At end R then immediately L up stony track. When track bisects take R option and soon rejoin track through gate. At main road L then R up Harewood Rd. Just before T-junction L up cyclepath. At T-junction on path (with Shell petrol station to L) R through underpass and continue uphill on Oakbank. L at end on to Oakdale Av then, at main road, push bike R along path for 100yds then R up Kent Rd (unsurfaced at end). At T-junction L and just before the Harlow Moor Drive R, signed Central Nurseries and Harrogate Indoor Bowling Club. At top of drive L between a gate and a corner of a wall, past a greenhouse and between two towers.

R on main road then first L up Beckwith Rd. Take fourth exit at roundabout up Whinney Lane. After Squinting Cat L on Hilltop Lane. R at mini-roundabout and then L at Swan pub up Malt House Lane. At sign for Westminster Cres push bike R along short, fenced footpath. As you emerge R up Crimple Meadows then at T-junction R up Station Rd. R at lights then immediately L signed Pannal Golf Club.

At a T-junction cross over road then down short path. Push bike over bypass and continue L up path beside fence then R through barrier and on to Pannal Rd. At end R to pass through Follifoot. At main road R then after 500 yds L to Plumpton Rocks.

On leaving Rocks L then as road bends sharply to R pass through gate on L signed Public Bridleway Route Diverted. Push bike through the grass in the direction of another gate. Pass through and after 100 yards L on to farm track. At road R to the end. Pass through barrier, cross bypass and proceed down B6163 to Knaresborough. After bridge L up Waterside and back to car park. Alternatively, R down Abbey Rd, L on Wetherby Rd and L down York Rd to car park.

Fact file

Parking: Pay-and-display at Conyngham Hall, Knaresborough. Alternatively, free car park at Old Bilton.

Plumpton Rocks: Open weekends and Bank Holidays from March to October. Entry and parking: £1.50.

Click here to view a map of the ride

Updated: 09:10 Saturday, October 12, 2002