Simple pleasures

OCTOBER is a great month for turning up the heat in the kitchen, especially as the first two seasonal foods on the list are well known for their aphrodisiac qualities.

Oysters are available all year round but are best harvested from the cold seas between October and February.

Once an abundant, staple food of the working classes, oysters today are considered a luxury treat and can be expensive.

Although they command a premium price out of season, at this time of year you can expect to pay around 50 pence per oyster.

Oyster-lovers prefer to eat them raw, straight from the shell, but they can be briefly cooked. Try them pan-fried with olive oil, garlic and shallots. Oyster shells are fairly easy to open but be careful. Hold the oyster with a thick cloth and insert a blunt knife firmly into the hinges at the side of the shell. Twist the knife to gently prize open the oyster, trying to keep the juices inside the shell. Loosen off the oyster, sprinkle with lemon juice, then just tip back your head and enjoy!

Next up this month we have figs. Figs are a luscious fruit, with purple-green skins and vibrant red flesh. Figs are fairly delicate - they bruise easily and deteriorate quickly, so it's best to store them in the fridge. When ripe, figs have a lovely sweet flavour. The flesh contains tiny, edible seeds and you can even eat the skin.

When it comes to preparing figs, I prefer to keep things simple. Eat them on their own or cut into quarters, place on a baking tray, drizzle with honey and warm gently in the oven. Serve with vanilla ice-cream. Delicious!

The autumn and winter months up until the middle of December are traditionally the best time for game. Smaller game birds such as guinea fowl are worth looking out for this month.

The flavour of guinea fowl is somewhere between chicken and pheasant. Guinea fowl is great in stews and casseroles. My tip is to pop a couple of pieces of dark chocolate into the gravy to add extra richness.

When roasting whole guinea fowl, protect the breast meat with bacon rashers. Serve with game chips - thinly sliced deep-fried potato.

Kale is also in season this month and home-grown produce can be found at local greengrocers and supermarkets. Kale is a member of the cabbage family and comes in straight and curly leafed varieties.

Always wash the leaves well before cooking. Toss kale in butter, fry for a few minutes and season with salt and pepper. For something a bit different, try wrapping cod in flat-leafed kale and baking in the oven.

Finally this month: elderberries, a virtually forgotten fruit. Elderberries are wild berries that are not commercially grown. They seem to be everywhere at the moment and can be found in gardens and hedgerows.

The berries are great for sauces, jam and of course, home-made wine. They also combine well with blackberries to make ice-cream, sorbet and syrup, and give an added ingredient to apple pies and crumbles. Elderberry bushes have creamy white flowers, which cast a sweet smell into the air. The flower stems can be dipped in batter and deep fried for a traditional Somerset treat.

Recipes for October:

Oh so fruity oysters

(Serves 2)

6 oysters, with their juice

2 shallots, finely diced

Half a glass of red wine

1 pink grapefruit

1 orange

5 fresh lemon balm leaves, shredded

Method:

Remove the oysters from their shells, place in a bowl with their juices and refrigerate. Wash out the shells and set aside.

Simmer the shallots in red wine over a low heat.

Meanwhile, peel the grapefruit and orange and cut into small segments, reserving the juice. Place the segments in a bowl and mix in the lemon balm.

Add the fruit and oyster juice. Mix the shallots with the fruit.

To serve, put a spoonful of the fruit mixture into the bottom half of each shell and place an oyster on top.

James says: "This is a really simple dish with a sweet tangy flavour."

Garlic guinea fowl

(Serves 2)

1 guinea fowl, cut into chunks

4 garlic cloves, sliced lengthways

Large bunch rosemary, chopped

150ml white wine

150ml extra virgin olive oil

Plain flour for dusting

Salt and pepper

Method:

Season the guinea fowl with salt and pepper and coat the pieces with plain flour.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan. When hot, add the meat and seal well on all sides until crisp and golden brown.

Reduce to a low heat, add the garlic and rosemary, cover and cook for 30 minutes, turning the meat occasionally.

Increase the heat to high, remove the lid, add the white wine and allow to evaporate.

Serve with slices of toasted bruschetta, rubbed with garlic and drizzled with some of the cooking oil.

James says: "A great meal if you fancy something a bit special."

Marinated figs with vanilla yoghurt

(Serves 2)

4 fresh figs, halved

1oz caster sugar

For the marinade:

2 tbsp red wine

2 tbsp caster sugar

2 tsp clear honey

Seeds from half a vanilla pod

For the yoghurt:

110g Greek yoghurt

Seeds from half a vanilla pod

Method:

In a shallow dish mix together the wine, caster sugar, honey and vanilla seeds.

Add the figs, coating all sides in the marinade. Set aside for at least ten minutes.

Mix together the yoghurt and remaining vanilla seeds. Refrigerate.

Place the figs on a baking sheet, sprinkle over the remaining sugar.

Blowtorch or grill the figs until the sugar has melted and caramelised.

Serve with the vanilla yoghurt.

James says: "A fab dinner party dish that can be prepared at the last minute for unexpected guests!"

Seasonal food coming up in November: Beetroot, pumpkin, parsnips, chestnuts, goose and cranberries.

James Lowe is the owner of Villa Italia restaurant at 69 Micklegate, York.

Telephone: (01904) 670501

Updated: 08:35 Saturday, October 18, 2003