Evening Press reporter STEVE CARROLL donned his top hat for a day at Royal Ascot to see what York can expect when it hosts the meeting next year.

THEY were gathering several hours before the first race. The horses were the last thing on their minds.

As the doors opened, thousands were outside waiting, breathlessly, to show off their designer frocks and devour a fountain of Pimms and champagne.

This is Royal Ascot - the only race meeting in the world where the equine stars take a back seat to style, pageantry, and being seen.

"Who is Kieron Fallon?" said one elderly gentleman, bedecked in top hat and morning suit, before racing began on a scorching day at the Berkshire track.

"I think he's a jockey", said his friend - referring to Britain's champion performer.

"It's champagne, hats and horses - in that order," said Rona Davies, of Wrexham, in the Brigadier Gerard bar.

"It's that atmosphere that brings us to Ascot.

"I will definitely be coming to York next year. It's a lovely city and I think it will be very similar."

Ascot is the Wembley of horse racing. A grand old servant, revered and respected by all, but clearly in need of renovation.

And, like saying farewell to an old friend, the Ascot faithful turned out in huge numbers for the last Royal Meeting in its present surroundings, before the revamp which means it must move to York.

The Royal Enclosure and Grandstand were a sea of people, packed tightly together, jostling for position. Forget the road congestion, it's the traffic jams inside the racecourse enclosures which will occupy the team bringing this magnificent spectacle to York.

At its zenith was the Royal Procession. If the ceremony being planned to open the Knavesmire event is anything like that which graced the straight mile here at Ascot, we are in for a treat.

At first it was just a glint of red on the horizon. But, as the carriage came nearer, the cheers rose higher. Then, suddenly, the smiling face of the Queen was visible, her hand waving to an adoring crowd. Royal Ascot was officially under way.

The time had come to turn attentions to the betting ring, and the action was intense.

Celebrity bookmaker Barry Dennis shouted his catchphrase, "Beat the Bismarck,", as a line of hungry punters waited for the opportunity to take their chance.

"£400 each way on number nine," shouted one punter, flicking his £800 like confetti over to the grateful bookie. He would never get it back.

Another race-goer was in poetic mood. "This is England," he said. "Bookies, betting and strawberries and cream. It's what has made this country great."

Among the celebrities living it up in private boxes and in the Royal Enclosure were entertainers Bruce Forsyth and Cilla Black.

Cilla gave the thumbs up to York, saying she would be attending Knavesmire when the five-day festival was renewed next year.

"I will definitely be coming to York," she said.

"It's about time Ascot came north. I am really looking forward to it."

If saying goodbye was at the back of the minds of Ascot devotees, greeting York next year was at the forefront.

Jade Perkins, of Bermondsey, said: "We have already been talking for ages about booking our York tickets. We love Ascot and we love the fashion, so a day out in York would be fantastic. I come here with my friends and, hopefully, we will all be making our way to York."

Then, to cap it all, Ascot ended its first day of racing with a sing-a-long. Old favourites rang out throughout the stands.

You had better get rehearsing. Start tuning your voices. The finest hospitality is only 12 months away. We can't wait.

Updated: 11:34 Wednesday, June 16, 2004