IT was at the suggestion of the McIntosh family that we visited this country house, garden and tearooms. Access is well signposted from the main village street.

The caf is a long low building. Could it originally have been stables? We were slightly put off as we approached by the smell of cooking oil. However, once inside the caf the atmosphere was clear. There were additional tables outside adjacent to the car park.

There was a menu on each table and a specials board behind the servery. It was mid-afternoon and our arrival coincided with an influx of visitors.

Five staff were falling over each other behind the counter seemingly operating without any system. Service took for ever.

I ordered tea for two (£2), a scone with jam and cream (£1.50), fresh cream sponge for Ann and almond tart for me. The cakes were not individually priced but together came to £3.80.

Ann had secured an oil cloth covered table. Not quite what she thought a country house might provide! When the tables were cleared the staff did wipe them but without moving the menu, cruet and so forth. The tea was refreshing. A jug of hot water was provided without asking and there was fresh milk. Full marks so far.

The scone which we shared was remarkable only for the enormous portion of cream that went with it.

Ann is not fond of almond so for once we did not share our cakes. For me the tart, a combination of cherry and almond, was delicious.

The slice of fresh cream cake contained custard, strawberries and kiwi fruit. To choose such an item was surely self-indulgent.

The standard menu contains a predictable range of sandwiches, baguettes and other snack items. I noticed roast peppers with goats cheese and basil in a baguette (£4.25). Under salads was goujons of plaice (£4.75). Coffee and hot chocolate cost £1.30.

We saw soup, chips and ploughman's lunches being served in addition to afternoon tea and sandwiches. There was plenty of choice for vegetarians.

Sutton House is not too far north of York and combines house, garden, tearoom with a plant sale and a shop which sold mainly clothes. Was this an off-shoot of a business in Easingwold?

Updated: 08:38 Saturday, June 19, 2004