GEORGE WILKINSON takes in some fabulous views on a visit to the Cleveland Hills

We climbed the 400ft from frost to sun, from the lowlands to the heather, from Bank Foot to the crags above the tree line and to Battersby Moor. The only clouds in the sky were small, distant and man-made, vaporous over Teesside, and darker ones of heather smoke on a slow drift towards that city of the plains.

For a while we absorbed the fabulous views and crested the moor. Then, after stopping to chat with a gamekeeper riding an eight-wheel-drive traction-control buggy, started the steep descent into beautiful, secluded Baysdale.

Starlings had the pickings from the grass one side of the hairpin road, fieldfares the other. At the bottom, a long terraced building stands on the site of a 13th century Cistercian Nunnery, its 27 windows look out over a concealed ditch and wall ha-ha to pastures where doubtless nuns did pray and play.

We strolled up to a tongue of forest, entered its cold-store chill and emerged to a comfortable sandwich spot and warmed on prostrate stone gateposts. Robins gathered while we eyed-up our track over Ingleby Moor.

The track goes on and up for a mile or more. Midges hatched, a furry caterpillar curled, and a frog was deep-frozen. Down to the east, Grain Beck is forested over. As those trees fade out, the track goes on to loop the head of the dale, but that's for another day.

A large and cheery group of educational charity workers bounded by and enthused about 'psychedelic ice patterns' in the gullies; we briefed them on the Kildale tearooms, and turned for Middle Head Top.

An altitude of 1,400ft brought the top views, enhanced by the sun hung in the west over the blue Cleveland Hills and a full moon that rested on the eastern moor.

Today's wonderful walk is on important old roads and tracks, well adorned with prehistoric mounds, and past a splendid medieval cross.

The nicest is a 1757 marker stone inscribed 'Stoxley, Ingleby' which also features a rock-covered hollow in the top containing coin and calories for the desperate traveller.

As our route was soon to plummet down to the plain we didn't need the weathered Rocky or Twix bars on offer, and had enough change for cups of tea.

Fact file

Distance: Eight miles.

Time: Four or five hours.

General location: Cleveland Hills/North York Moors.

Start: Bank Foot, GR. 593062.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: Saturday February 15 2003.

Road route: Ingleby Greenhow is between Great Broughton (on the B1257) and Kildale. The turn for Bank Foot is a quarter mile east of Ingleby Greenhow, and is sign posted.

Car parking: Bank Foot, trackside. Limited parking in Baysdale GR. 612071.

Lavatories: None.

Refreshments: The Dudley Arms in

Ingleby Greenhow, Glebe Cottage Tea

Rooms in Kildale.

Tourist and public transport information: The Moors Centre Danby 01287 660540.

Map: Based on OS Explorer OL 26 North York Moors Western area.

Terrain: Mostly moorland.

Points of interest: Cycle route.

Difficulty: Moderate in fair weather, good tracks, 1,300 ft of climbing.

Dogs: Suitable.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

Directions

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. From parking area on track, right to pass farm (signed 'Unsuitable for Motor Vehicles'), stile/fieldgate to track steep uphill, fieldgate.

2. At hairpin bend (around crag) where track heads east and continues uphill, leave main track for grassy track on left (iron posts and chain, wooden bridleway sign), swings left, sleeper bridge over stream, 200 yards then leave track at a right-hand bend and go straight on to path (cairns) which angles up to another main track.

3. Left to main track.

4. Fork right at white tipped rock about 200 yards before fieldgate to road, slight descent on grassy path at one o'clock, gate, 100 yards, right to road.

5. Stone bridge, 100 yards, cross grass to fieldgate on right before terrace (waymark), cross field, fieldgate between wall and fence, grassy track 200 yards uphill.

6. Fieldgate into wood (waymark), 20 yards, fork right, track.

7. Fieldgate to moor and straight on to track gently uphill. Ignore minor paths/tracks to right. Forestry to left fades, track begins gentle descent.

8. Stone/dirt track on right (heather triangle at junction with a cairn, no sign, wooden grouse butts were nearby).

9. Stone on Burton Howe tumulus (with yellow paint mark), 50 yards, right fork, 20 yards, right to main track.

10. Fork left at Y junction (where Cleveland Way continues via right fork), easy descent and rejoin outward route.

Click here to view a map of the walk

Updated: 09:01 Saturday, February 22, 2003