MAXINE GORDON checks out tweeds with a twist for the 21st century.

THINK of tweed and you probably conjure up pictures of a great aunt in a tatty twin set or a manic maths teacher in a musty old jacket.

Hardly the stuff of fabulous fashion.

Well, get ready to ditch your dismissals because tweed is one of the defining looks for autumn. It's the ultimate in English style: smart and conservative, evoking the country, comfort and conformity.

And yet, dressed up for 2004, we find traditional tweed lending itself to a variety of twists, making it a must-have fashion trend.

The look splits into two camps: formal and funky.

In the first, we find a wealth of smart jackets and suits, perfect for work or going out.

Most high street stores are doing their own version of the tweed jacket.

The emphasis is very much on the Forties. The styling is feminine, with designs cut to the hip, single-breasted and sometimes adorned by a belt or a fur trim. Think of Bette Davis or Joan Crawford and you get the picture.

For sheer affordability, put New Look at the top of your shopping list and check out its tweed belted fur collar jacket (£29.99) with matching pencil skirt (£19.99).

Littlewoods is also joining the tweedy set with a scoop-neck jacket (£49) and rouched skirt (£25), which packs a provocative punch.

The catalogue La Redoute is always worth a browse for its up-to-the-minute trends at more-than-reasonable prices. It has two tweed jackets that should see you through the season.

The first is a plain, herringbone-style weave with narrow lapels and two buttons for £45. The second features a traditional check with pocket details and skinny belt, also for £45.

Go wild for the country-chic look with Gap's offering. It's gone for a jumbo check on a herringbone print (£44) on its tweed jacket.

And if that's not enough, check out Next which has a bold brown and pink tweed knee-length coat with stand-up collar for £79.99.

If all that tweed is a trend too far, then you can always just dabble with a dose. There are plenty of fun and funky alternatives to the tweedy two-piece.

How about a tweed skirt - and a mini one at that (if your legs can carry it off).

La Redoute has a front-pleated mini in Prince Of Wales check (£24), while New Look has a slim-line knee-length pencil skirt in oversized check print (£19.99)

If that's still too much, what about jeans with a tweedy print on the turn-up (La Redoute, £35) or black court shoes with a tiny black and white tweed print on the front (La Redoute, £49)?

Another good way to embrace the trend is to splash out on accessories.

Again La Redoute has a head start on the rest with its herringbone bob hat with top-stitched rim (£11). Gap has a more traditional tweedy hat for £16.50 and is also doing a great range of bags, from the large vintage-looking tote bag (£34.50) to mini tweed handbags in pink or brown (£14.50).

Hopefully, that's all the encouragement you need to check out tweeds again.

It's your move.

Updated: 08:57 Saturday, August 28, 2004