Richard Foster has lunch in one of York's architectural gems.

A MEDIEVAL gargoyle made a grotesque dining companion when I lunched in the restaurant at St William's College - a magnificent timbered building in the shadow of York Minster.

The weathered stone face from a bygone era looked down on me as I tucked into a meal with an appropriate autumnal flavour.

But I was not as petrified as the legendary libertine Don Giovanni was when a statue accepted his invitation to dinner with devastating consequences. Rather, the St William's gargoyle enhanced my gastronomic experience.

That's the beauty of York; look around and you are likely to catch a glimpse of the city's vibrant history.

St William's has a chequered past. Built in 1461, originally as a college for Minster clerics, it fell on hard times in the 19th century when it housed a collection of dreadful slum tenements.

Now restored to its former glory, St William's is a magnificent venue for eating out.

Of course, the medieval craftsman who chiselled out the features of the gargoyle would have appreciated a good lunch just as much as an office worker from the 21st century.

Wednesday's lunch menu offered plenty of choice. The cold table featured poached salmon fillet, served with a celery, shrimp and fennel salad; grilled Korean chicken with rice and a spring onion dressing; and roast aubergine cannelloni with beef tomatoes and red peppers.

But with autumn leaves falling in the breeze, I craved a hot meal. I was tempted by the smoked haddock wrapped in Pancetta ham with white wine beurre blanc, but I opted for an intriguing meal: pork, apricot and thyme patties in a red wine jus.

My dining companion, Janice, being a vegetarian, chose oyster mushroom, button mushroom and asparagus stroganoff, served with rice.

My patties were bursting with flavour. Their taste was complemented beautifully by the rich red wine jus.

The vegetables were cooked to perfection, being both tasty and crunchy. The courgettes had a hint of mint, while the braised red cabbage was sweet and spicy. The baby potatoes were baked in their skin, giving them an earthy flavour.

Mushroom stroganoff is a staple vegetarian dish in many a restaurant. Janice said her meal was excellent. It had a rich, mushroomy taste, which went well with the crunchy asparagus.

Janice was also impressed by the red cabbage and courgettes, though she declined the potatoes because her meal already included rice. Hungry diners please note, St William's does offer generous Yorkshire portions.

The choice of desserts was equally impressive: strawberries and cream; exotic fresh fruit salad; lemon ricotta cheesecake and cherry frangipane.

Janice chose the cheesecake, which was rich and creamy. My frangipane had a cherry in every mouthful and the sponge had a pleasant moist and airy texture - ideal for a classic pudding.

We each had a glass of wine with the main course, and coffee to finish. The price of our meal for two came to £29.60, which was reasonable for such an agreeable lunch in a venue with a relaxing and cheerful ambience.

The building, with its roof timbers and wooden floor, wears its history lightly. Brightly coloured modern paintings adorn the walls along with tapestries.

Jazz CDs, featuring the likes of Norah Jones, play in the background. Large mirrors reflect the light, giving the restaurant a bright and airy feel, and logs in the grate add a homely touch.

The members of staff were friendly and efficient and, though busy during our lunch break, always found the time to chat to customers, both old and new.

Lunch is served between noon and 2.30pm and children are welcome. The lunch menu included a children's Hungry Monkey Lunch Box for £3.25. Main lunch courses are £6.95; puddings £2.95; soup of the day £2.95; glass of house wine £2.95; and coffee £1.95.

Diners who lunch at St William's are offered a 15 per cent discount voucher that can be redeemed when eating at the restaurant in the evening, between 5.30pm and 10pm Sunday to Friday; and 6pm to 10pm on Saturday.

St William's Restaurant, St William's College, College Street, York. Tel: 01904 634830

Richard visited St William's Restaurant on September 22 2004

Food: tasty

Service: efficient

Value: reasonable

Ambience: relaxed

Disabled access: No

Restaurant reviewers aim to be fair and accurate. Any comments on this review should be addressed to Chris Titley, Features Content Editor, Evening Press, 76-86 Walmgate, York, YO1 9YN or email

features@ycp.co.uk

Updated: 16:27 Friday, September 24, 2004