George Wilkinson finds a warm welcome, a chilly wind and a motorcyclist's bare behind.

SAWDON and the warmth of its Anvil Inn lay somewhere a couple of miles south-east. To the south the Wolds shone milky bright the far side of the flatland Carrs. The area around the car park looked strangely shaped. But we didn't hang around for long, it may have been bright but it was bitterly cold seven hundred feet up on Troutsdale Brow.

A track led into the woods, a sign read 'Moors to Sea Cycle Route, ten mph limit'. Scarborough is not much more than five miles from here, the forested moors encircle from the north.

Soon, after a struggle, we found the Scamridge Dikes and walked them for half a mile at an average speed of about half a mile an hour.

The dikes here are three parallel ditches and mounds, the whole 50 yards across, the ditches ten foot deep, very regular, very impressive, but overgrown.

Penetration was difficult, best to walk to one side or the other so as not to disturb the ghosts of the ancients or more probably the owl that lives in the densest of the gnarled thorns and mossy elders. Motorcycles throbbed softly through distant trees.

Out on a flat plateau of fields we looked out south again, but mainly watched our feet on sticky field margins and rough grassy semi-extinct 'highway'. At Moorsome Farm there are more ancient earthworks and piles of walling stone.

Then we started to fulminate. First, there was gas-powered bird-scarer right next to the bridleway. Then the field margin paths were poor.

The half of mile of mudway improved to a good thickety green lane, and then fast tracks over swooping grasslands brought us to the main street of Sawdon and the Anvil Inn. The previous owners had wanted to turn the Anvil into a house, now you have to book for Sunday lunch; we warmed by the wood stove.

And then were warmed more by more 'green lanes' and back lane and then we were slowed by a track with 4x4 ruts and a motorcycle groove between them.

This brought us back to Troutsdale Brow about a mile from our car, and we raced to beat the rain.

On our left the forests of the future, acres stubbled with millions of three-inch conifers; on our right, through the bare larch and dark pines, the pastures of Troutsdale.

A farm has a grassy mound by it called 'Basin Howe'.

At the car park we took more notice of the surroundings which are astonishingly furrowed with mysterious earthworks. Furrowed too was Victoria's brow when she saw the bare buttocks of the disrobing and mud encrusted motorcyclist; though when he registered he did make a nicely ambiguous joke about "an area of outstanding natural beauty".

Fact File:

Distance: Seven miles.

Time: Four hours.

General location: Southern edge of North York Moors.

Start: Troutsdale Brow, GR. 915868.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way, permissive path and in open access areas.

Date walked: Sunday January 18, 2004.

Road route: From Snainton on the A170, north on Nettledale Lane at the Peacock Hotel, signed 'Troutsdale'.

Car parking: Free parking area to right of road at forest edge.

Lavatories: None.

Refreshments: The Anvil Inn at Sawdon Tel 01723 859896.

Tourist & public transport information: Pickering TIC 01751 473791.

Map: Based on OS Explorer OL27 North York Moors eastern area.

Terrain: Upland farmland.

Points of interest: Ancient earthworks, probably territorial, perhaps tribal.

Difficulty: Some rough ground.

Dogs: Suitable.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

Directions:

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. Cross road from parking area to wood-edge track, 100 yards, gates.

2. Just before three large overgrown ditches on left, find narrow path on left (small white post). If you miss path, trees on left end in 100 yards. Join dikes after 100 yards. Best by west side of dike, 100 yards after underground reservoir cross to east side at gap.

3. At junction with track and wooded area, left to field-edge path. At first corner, left to field-edge path (bridleway sign).

4. Right to road, track on left to Moorsome Farm and immediately fork right to skirt farmyard. Exact route of public right of way immediately after farm disputed, we followed waymarks and stayed on track that swings right above trees.

5. Metal fieldgate (handful of trees either side), then 11 o'clock across grass via trees, fieldgate in corner, field-edge path (wall to right), 100 yards, right at corner to field-edge path (wall to left). Fieldgate to path (thicket either side).

6. Left at tracks crossroads (signs).

7. At bungalow, straight on for Sawdon, right at road to pub.

Retrace steps to No. 7 and right (bungalow to left) to track. Left to road (verge).

8. At right-hand bend, fork left to second of two tracks, i.e. not farm track. Left at tracks junction and return to parking area.

Click here to view a map of the walk

Updated: 09:36 Saturday, January 24, 2004