Keith Fairbank scales Pen-y-Ghent during a visit to picturesque Horton in Ribblesdale.

HORTON in Ribblesdale has always attracted walkers keen to conquer the nearby Three Peaks but this small village near Settle has much more to offer than weary legs and the need for a hot bath.

It is ideally positioned as a gateway to the delights of the Dales, yet Horton has successfully resisted the temptation to surrender its soul to tourism.

As such, it boasts all the quaint characteristics of a Yorkshire village combined with spectacular scenery and places of interest.

The village marks the start of the Three Peaks Walk, the challenging 26-mile route over three 700 metre summits - Pen-y-Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough - to be completed in a day.

Less ambitious walkers can try scaling one of the peaks. Pen-y-Ghent, the nearest of the peaks, dominates the landscape at 2,273 feet (693 metres) high.

We climbed to the top, which represented a steady walk - taking two to three hours up and down. However, visitors of all abilities can walk the gentler paths at its base and still see the peak up close.

Organised walks are available regularly with groups such as Friends of Dales Rail, an organisation linked to the other major attraction of the area, the Settle-Carlisle railway.

Horton in Ribblesdale is the first stop on this great line, and the nearby Ribblehead Viaduct dramatically overlooks Whernside, the second and largest of the Peaks.

The 72-mile historic line was completed in 1876 after seven years of Victorian endeavour conquered the Pennines. Today, special steam trains still travel its length.

Although the easiest way to reach Horton is by car (taking the A59 and then the A65 to Settle, followed by the B6479), we travelled by rail, changing at Leeds, and found it a more interesting and pleasant alternative

Hungry for lunch, we faced a choice of two pubs in Horton, the Crown and the Red Lion. Both offered moderately-priced food.

Another alternative is the Pen-y-Ghent Caf, which as well as selling refreshments, doubles as the local tourist information centre. In addition to selling guidebooks and maps, the friendly proprietors provide a clock-in and out service for more experienced walkers wishing to explore the area alone. It stays open late to greet all upon their return.

Other attractions in the area include caves at Ingleborough, the market town of Settle and a falconry centre at Clapham.

Fact file

Horton in Ribblesdale Tourist Information Centre and Pen-y-Ghent Caf. Tel 01729 860333. Open daily 9am to late.

The Crown Hotel. Tel 01729 860209. B&B from £24 pp, dinner served from 6pm.

For information on Friends of Dales Rail organised walks see www.friendsofdalesrail.org

Updated: 10:28 Saturday, April 23, 2005