The beautiful drive through God's Own Country to the White Swan in Ampleforth should have been a light hearted affair.

As per usual, however, my dining partner and I found some knotty issues to unravel on the journey.

"Is this a gastro pub then?" he asked.

"I think it's a pub that does good food," I replied.

"What's the difference?"

Any anxieties about being underdressed, however, were quickly dispelled when we arrived on a quiet Tuesday night.

Plush furnishings did nothing to unease the casual drinkers or diners in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

We entered a large bar and dining area with polished floorboards and creamy decor. Split levels and open beams broke up the space, lending it a cosy yet sophisticated feel, and scattered cushions and tasteful lighting adding to the charm.

A more traditional pub bar lies at the front where real men can stand and drink, and the restaurant leads off from a third bar and reception area to the side.

We got a drink and settled at the bar to study the extensive menu and specials board.

In the end I chose Italian prosciutto on a salad of blue cheese, roasted chestnut mushrooms and peppers (£6.25) to start.

He opted for Smoked Salmon Benedict - oak smoked Scottish salmon served on a lemon and herb muffin, crme fraiche and chives, topped with a poached egg (£5.95), despite being sorely tempted by pan fried local black pudding served on a sweet apple sauce and a red onion relish (£5.25).

For main course, I went for marinated game Bourguignon in red wine and juniper berries served with fresh thyme dumplings (£11.25).

He chose roast rump of lamb upon a creamed cabbage potato rosti with rosemary and redcurrant sauce (£11.75).

Having booked, we were shown through to the dining room, which was dramatically decorated with deep green walls, and tartan carpet, giving the impression of a highland hunting lodge.

The beautiful oak tables were lovingly laid, but the overall experience fell a little short of the restaurant service the surroundings seemed to promise.

It wasn't the fault of the staff or the pub - we were simply getting the same service, food and prices available in the bar in a different part of the pub. If you want something 'a bit special', however, you may be under-whelmed.

As far as we were concerned, it was delightful. Florid as ever, my dining partner said his salmon Benedict 'did exactly what it said on the tin', and was perfectly palatable. My salad was a taste explosion, with the tangy blue cheese, rich ham and tasty peppers fighting for attention. They were both hearty portions and good value.

When our main courses came we both stared in wonder at a glowing bowl of chips inexplicably placed before us. "Did you order those?" we challenged each other simultaneously.

Delighted with them, as with our bowls of piping hot vegetables, we munched merrily away.

The game selection in my dish included venison, rabbit and pigeon. Together with the dumplings and the rich sauce it was absolutely scrumptious, if a little over-facing after my generous and rich starter.

The lamb was described as good meat, well cooked. The sauce was more of a gravy (and received an enthusiastic thumbs up).

And finally to pudding. My dining partner proudly declared himself to be somewhat of a connoisseur when it comes to sticky toffee pudding (£4.35), so it was high praise indeed when he heralded the dish to be "exceptionally good".

I had raspberry crme brule (£4.24), which was nice too, but I was left wishing I'd got in there first with the sticky toffee.

We rounded things off with coffee at the bar - a generous jug to serve two.

This time, it really, was a relaxed and enjoyable drive home, with some exquisite dusk views over the countryside. I would definitely recommend venturing out some abandoned summer's evening to this delightful pub.

Claire's visit was on Tuesday, June 14, 2005.

The White Swan, East End, Ampleforth, York.

Tel: 01439 788239.

Updated: 16:38 Friday, July 08, 2005