Secret Spain

WHITE painted buildings covered in an array of coloured, scented flowers, narrow streets meandering to the water's edge where boats bob about on a turquoise crystal clear sea.

Quaint restaurants where one can relax enjoying superb local cuisine, hospitality and sensational views while the hours just melt away. Sun-soaked beaches and villages nestling in coves surrounded by pine clad hills.

This is the sort of description you would expect to find in the travel brochures for the wonderful Greek islands, one of my favourite holiday destinations. But no, this geographical gem was much nearer home and our week's holiday went all too quickly in Spain's Costa Brava.

The area has long been considered a package-holiday destination with fish and chips, sangria, happy hours, tour buses and all-day breakfasts offering Brits a home from home but with sun.

However, this image is based only on a few towns in the southernmost part of the region that were most affected by the tourist boom.

While these larger resorts may have fallen out of favour, the smaller towns of the Emporda that stretch to the north are becoming increasingly popular as people discover the tiny inlets backed by pine forests and inland villages steeped in history, character and good restaurants.

This is the real Costa Brava, a diverse region of extraordinary natural beauty and cultural heritage.

Camping Valldaro is a cosmopolitan, bustling campsite with many facilities on the outskirts of Platja d'Aro and was a perfect base for exploring the area.

This busy, large resort with its modern marina, long sandy beach, designer shops and abundance of bars and restaurants was in marked contract to the laid-back atmosphere of the charming little seaside fishing villages of Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc, Tamariu and the unspoilt splendour of Sa Tuna and Aiguablava.

Many of these picturesque villages are connected by coastal paths that offer spectacular views of the rugged coastline.

The whole area is very accessible by road and every day proved an adventure as we discovered one delightful place after another. Highlights included Cadaques, the last resort on the Costa Brava before the French border, a magnet for artists who come to enjoy the views and atmosphere, following in the footsteps of Picasso and Dali. We also loved the walled medieval hilltop town of Pals with its panoramic views over Catalonia.

We booked our holiday with Vacansoleil Camping Holidays but chose not to drive from the UK. Instead we flew independently to Barcelona. After enjoying an overnight stop in that magnificently vibrant and exciting city, we hired a car and took the 80-minute drive north to the campsite.

Friends had constantly recommended the area, and I remember Judith Chalmers featuring it on the Holiday programme. While extolling its virtues, she mentioned that one set of holidaymakers who returned every year had pleaded with her to keep the secret of this wonderful area. She did not and nor can I - it is an area certainly worth a visit.

Fact file

Vacansoleil features 16 campsites in Spain, including 11 on the Costa Brava.

Martin Oates and family stayed at Camping Valldaro on Spain's Costa Brava courtesy of Vacansoleil.

On-site facilities include two outdoor pools, two children's pools, tennis, table tennis, mini golf, games room, playground, cycle hire, TV room, plus bar, restaurant and take-away.

A week's stay - for a family of up to six - in a fully equipped tent starts at £266 per party for arrivals on site between September 3 and 30. For arrivals during peak season - July 15 to August 18 - the cost is £592 per party.

Alternatively, a seven-night stay in a fully equipped 'Fiji' mobile home begins at £392 per party for arrivals on site between March 31 and April 12, April 17 and 27, May 1 and 31 plus September 11 and 30. For arrivals between July 15 and August 25, the cost is £823 per party.

These prices include midweek return Dover-Calais Eurotunnel, SeaFrance or P&O crossing for car and passengers. If no ferry is required, the price is reduced by £90.

The company's 2006 programme features the largest choice of locations for the UK market with more than 300 campsites throughout Europe -including 23 new locations in France, Austria, Germany, Italy and the Netherlands. Other countries featured are Spain, Slovenia, Croatia, Switzerland, Hungary, Czech Republic, Luxembourg, Belgium, Denmark and the UK.

Reservations: 08700 778 779 www.vacansoleil.co.uk