Low Row in the morning was like Low Row the previous evening; threatening wet.

At breakfast, the gloom beyond the glass moved down Swaledale and walkers amended their plans over bacon and eggs.

Ever optimistic, we tramped up to the stone walls of Blades, with the wind behind. The circling of Brownsey Moor was in the offing and mystery birds flocked.

The brunt of the climb is named Brunt Hill. Swaledale had vanished in the weather and there was a moment to think ourselves lucky here, sat on dry heather and taking a bite out of the Punch Bowl’s packed lunch.

Then I saw the ring ouzel, latin turdus torqatus, by a cluster of ponds, but I was slow with the binoculars and it was gone, unconfirmed. They are very shy and look like their relative, the blackbird, but with a white bib.

It started to rain, enough for full waterproofs. Luckily, there were fast miles ahead, this walk is nearly all good track and, of that, most stoned for Landrovers, well packed and smooth enough.

We dinked down to Mill Gill, the beck with many names, Surrender Bridge is more than a mile downstream. Closer are the remnants of Old Gang Smelting Mills and they looked quite satanic.

A lead-tolerant, high-altitude dipper dipped on the rocks, a pair of grouse ushered six chicks through the heather and a party of walkers pressed further up the valley.

We turned off to cross the moor, past Old Rake Hush, by a moor called Roger and nearly to Merry Fields.

Indeed it was cheerful as we took the next two miles at between 1,700 and 1,800 feet, in the sunshine, with local valleys shaded out in schadenfreude grey but with crystal views to the North York Moors 30 miles away. This is a super walk.

The way back takes a while to descend, straightens down at some old spoil heaps, avoids Gunnerside and then contours on grassland. Here we met a dog walker, a local of 20 years, who wistfully told of hard winters past and, because she lived in Clogger Hall, of clog making. Later, at Reeth’s museum, there was the information that the alder wood of clog soles ‘absorbs damp from feet’. I have also read that alder leaves in the boots soothe aching and burning feet, and elsewhere that the trees absorb gold. In Swaledale that might be lead, or some other heavy metal. Could this be fungicidal?

Directions

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

Alternative start from Low Row. Right from Punch Bowl Inn, pass church, first road right uphill is the road to Direction Number 2.

1. Gallows Top, track southwest (fingerpost Low Row opposite a track fingerposted Kearton), pass houses, path across moor for 100 yards then between two walls downhill, fieldgate, walled track.

2. Right to road by East Broccabank House, uphill. At Blades, second track on right (fingerpost Surrender Bridge), 100 yards, right fork, grass track after High Cottage, large stone barn, 100 yards.

3. At right-hand bend fork left uphill on grass track steep for 300 yards, metal fieldgate in wall to stone track, sometimes grass track. As gradient reduces the wall to right peels away. Crest Brunt Hill, ignore track on left. Ford/stepping stones. Track swings sharp right downhill. Fieldgate.

4. Bridge, 100 yards, left to stone track (sign Level House Bridge).

5. Snickelgate/fieldgate and left to bridge and stone track uphill.

6. After field in moor to your left, track on left (cairn on right). Ford.

7. After grouse butts, ignore a lesser left on sharp right-hand bend.

8. Before spoil heaps and ruins, stone path/track on left downhill.

9. Left at T-junction with track and by wall to right, 100 yards, ignore right fork to fieldgate. Pass above ruins, 100 yards, ford and immediately right 100 yards downhill to fieldgate in wall.

10. Track across field 200 yards and 10 o'clock, left to wide grassy track by old post, contours, fieldgate and ignore right fork, 200 yards, ignore right grassy fork, join end of road

Fact File

Distance: Eight and a half miles
General location: Yorkshire Dales
Start:/ Gallows Top, or Low Row
Right of way: Public and open access
Map: Drawn from OS Explorer OL30 Yorkshire Dales northern and central areas
Dogs: Illegal
Date walked: July 2008
Road route: Via Reeth
Car parking: Roadside Gallows Top or Low Row
Lavatories: None
Refreshments: The Punch Bowl Inn, Low Row
Tourist and public transport information: Reeth TIC 01748 884059
Terrain: High Moor
Points of interest: Reeth Museum
Difficulty: Moderate in good weather.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.