THE one thing that strikes you about Paddyfields is that it doesn't look like your usual Chinese restaurant.

There's a very contemporary feel about the place - no red or gold and not even a dragon in sight.

The décor is simple, but effective - dark furniture and light stone-coloured walls and flooring with a few choice canvas prints scattered about. It is smart and stylish and just the place Haxby has been crying out for.

The restaurant (formerly Grants), opened with much anticipation in early December and has enjoyed an extremely busy Christmas and New Year period.

We visited on a rather wet and dreary Friday. I'd phoned in the afternoon just to check on the availability for a table for two adults and two young children (aged three and six) and left a message on an answerphone. Within minutes I'd received a call back, saying children were very welcome and they would provide a child's booster seat if we wanted.

It was fairly quiet when we arrived, but became steadily busier with both diners and takeaway customers.

Paddyfields is a small but intimate restaurant, with about a dozen tables, so booking is advisable.

It was our children Elliot and Zara's first experience of a Chinese restaurant and their first try with chopsticks. Elliot made a gallant attempt to pick up prawn crackers with his! At this point may we apologise for the state of the floor when we left.

Starters are an essential part of any Chinese meal, and Paddyfields didn't disappoint.

Choices included deep-fried squid with sweet and sour sauce, mussels in black bean sauce as well as beef satay on skewers and Singapore spring rolls. Prices range from £4.50 to £31 (for a whole crispy aromatic duck).

We wanted to sample a few things, so ordered the House Special Hors D'Oeuvres - a platter of prawn toast, crispy wantons, spring rolls and absolutely delicious Peking spare ribs. It worked in my favour because my wife, Jayne, is a vegetarian and they were mainly meat dishes - so if you are vegetarian it may be worth asking for alternatives.

The platter cost £7 per person (a minimum of two people sharing), which worked out cheaper than individual dishes.

We also asked for a bowl of crispy seaweed, not real seaweed , but deep-fried thinly-sliced greens. Gorgeous and very moreish.

Like many Chinese restaurants, the menu choice is vast. There is a great range of selections for meat eaters, vegetarians and those who love their seafood.

There are more than 130 main dishes and starters - and the dessert menu on top.

All the old main course favourites are there; king prawns with black bean sauce; chicken and cashew nuts; sweet and sour pork; roast duck in plum sauce; beef king po; as well as chow mein, egg foo yung and a whole assortment of bean curd dishes. These are complemented with more unusual offerings such as mixed seafood with bean curd hot pot, Malibu chicken with coconut sauce, beef and pineapple with pine nuts and Buddhist casserole. Prices range from £6 to £10.

I opted for a "sizzling" dish of fillet steak with ginger and spring onions (£10). This was staggeringly good. The thin strips of tender beef just melted in the mouth, and the "hot" chunks of fresh ginger and onions complemented the beef so well.

Jayne picked vegetables with cashew nuts (£6) from the vegetarian menu - a selection of carrots, broccoli, beansprouts, asparagus and tiny Chinese mushrooms with enough cashew nuts to keep a squirrel happy. We shared bowls of egg-fried rice and boiled rice, which were £2.50 and £2.20 respectively.

Elliot and Zara shared a rather large and very tasty chicken foo yung (£7) with a portion of crunchy chips. Why do Chinese chips always taste so good?

After the excesses of Christmas and New Year, we were going to give desserts a miss, but Elliot had set his heart on a chocolate teardrop filled with dark and white chocolate mousse (£3.95). He wolfed it down like no tomorrow, ably assisted by his dad who had to taste it for professional reasons.

There seemed to be a bit of a communication problem concerning Zara's ice-cream - instead of scoops of strawberry, vanilla and chocolate, she got three large mounds of chocolate. But never mind, dad was on hand again to offer his assistance.

Our bill came to a very reasonable £62, which included soft drinks, a Chinese beer and a glass of house white wine.

We were mightily impressed with Paddyfields, especially the service which was friendly, efficient and unobtrusive - and they didn't seem to mind the mess we left behind. Next time we go they'll know to have the dustpan and brush at the ready.

Paddyfields Cantonese Restaurant, 64 The Village, Haxby, York

Tel: 01904 767688

Open every day, except Tuesdays, from 5pm to 11pm.

  • Simon and family visited on January 6, 2008