REVIEW: We try the new Cafe 21 at Fenwick, York

But the silver lining is that now that lockdown restrictions have eased, Cafe 21 is coming out of its delayed starting blocks with plenty of style and lots to shout about.

For starters, the restaurant, formerly a Carluccio's, is in a very safe pair of hands - chef and restaurateur Terry Laybourne has bagged a Michelin star in his career and has an MBE for services to the hospitality industry.

The refitted restaurant is elegant and sophisticated - all white linens and shiny silverware - oozing indulgence and inviting you to come in, take a seat and be spoilt.

And who doesn't feel like being spoilt after the past 15 months?

We were invited to check out the new place one Friday lunchtime, as guests of Cafe 21, just a few weeks after the re-opening of the hospitality industry.

There is a choice of menus - you can go a la carte, or opt for a well-priced fixed menu: two courses for £22 or three for £25.

This suited us, although I did choose a dessert from the a la carte - which turned out to be sensational (more of that later!).

To start, my friend K had the butternut squash puree topped with pieces of whipped goat's curd and sunflower seeds. Some toasted flat breads were on the side for the obligatory dunking.

Butternut squash puree

It was served warm and was silky smooth, the sweetness of the puree a perfect match for the light curd. A winner, said K.

My jumbo prawn cocktail was hard to fault too - it had a real retro vibe with shards of iceberg lettuce and lashings of pink Marie Rose sauce. I loved the addition of avocado pieces and a surprise twist were the segments of sharp pink grapefruit. One to try myself at home.

Posh prawn cocktail - with grapefruit!

For mains, K had home-made haddock fish fingers with a tangy tartare sauce, mushy peas and skinny fries. Comforting and tasty was her verdict.

I had the minute steak with herb butter and fries - again this was full of flavour and a good chunky piece of meat rather than the envelope style you often receive. If I had one quibble the steak was cooked almost all the way through although I had asked for medium.

Minute steak with herb butter

For dessert, K kept with her schooldays theme and plumped for spotted Dick and custard. She polished the plate clean, so take that as a thumbs up.

I fancied something a bit different so went for the Liegoise from the ice-cream sundae selection. This was billed as coffee ice cream with espresso granita, mascarpone cream, espresso syrup and Speculoos biscuits (£6).

It was a knock-out. The coffee ice cream was smooth with a real depth of flavour, enhanced by the coffee syrup and granita - granules of iced coffee.

Needless to say, I passed on a coffee to finish. K had a herbal tea - a lovely counterbalance to the delicious Mimosas (Tattinger Brut Reserve Champagne with fresh orange juice for £11.50 each)that we opened with.

Inside the new look restaurant at Fenwick in York

A glance of the menu shows Cafe 21 has covered all the bases, offering Afternoon Tea as well as sandwiches, soups, salads, small plates, pasta, risotto and larger choices such as fishcakes, skewered prawns, chicken schnitzel, Thai green curry, filet mignon and courgette and goat's cheese lasagne.

Vegetarian and vegan options are available.

For more details, visit: cafe21york.co.uk

Open: 9am-5pm, Mon-Sat; 10am-4pm, Sunday

Telephone: 01904 946099

Email: enquiries@21hospitality.co.uk