JULIAN COLE says this recipe for rolls is just about the best.

WHAT’S appealing about this recipe is the tiny amount of yeast used. And the long, slow rise that goes with that.

You could adapt this for bread too, and you could replace the wholemeal flour and go all white, although the rolls probably won’t be quite as good. Or you could use wholemeal rye instead of ordinary wholemeal.

The old-fashioned sponge method is used here, in which time rising reduces the need for much yeast.

There are lots of versions of this recipe, but this one came from Bread Matters by Andrew Whitley, a serious and seriously good book about bread.

This makes a dozen decent-sized rolls.

Overnight:
5g fresh yeast or about 3g easy-blend yeast (less than half a sachet)
130g warm water
50g stoneground strong wholemeal flour
100g strong white flour.

If using fresh yeast, dissolve this in some of the water and then mix everything together; if using easy-blend, put the yeast in the flours, mix and add the water. Either way, cover and leave overnight.

In the morning:

Take the overnight sponge and mix in with 350g strong white four, 100g stoneground wholemeal flour, 5g salt, 270g water and 15g olive oil (or butter).

Knead for five minutes or so and leave to rise for about an hour.

Shape into rolls and place on a baking sheet covered in baking parchment, cover with oiled clingfilm and leave until well risen, possibly up to an hour.

Bake in a very hot oven (as high as it will go) for five minutes, then reduce the temperature to 210C, baking for 12 to15 minutes in total.

If cooked and sounding hollow when tapped, remove and place on wire tray to cool. Sometimes then need to go in the oven directly on the shelves for a minute more.

My variation: before baking, brush with beaten egg or olive oil and sprinkle with salt crystals