Graeme Robertson visits Mairs, in Heworth Village, York.

IT IS NOT often that I am at a loss for words, but this is one occasion.

Outside the notice proclaims “the widest choice of freshly made sandwiches”. Once inside we were confronted with an array of meats, cheeses and potential garnish, all of which could be included in the “100 sandwich ideas”. The cakes and tray bakes were equally appealing.

What else is there to say?

When the weather improves tables will appear on the pavement. In the meantime, snackers are constrained to a couple of tables plus high stools at the window shelf.

How could we make a choice when there was so much on offer? Far too much for me to remember. Breakfast combinations, jacket potatoes, British and foreign cooked meats, crayfish tails and many cheeses, some quite new to me; also pies, quiche and numerous hot (and cold) fillings for bread rolls, bagels and panini.

Ann selected a turkey, stuffing and cranberry in a roll. There was an apology that the bread selection was limited but after all it was 2pm. Ann had no comments except “excellent quality and a very generous filling”.

I echoed Ann’s comments on my duck and peppercorn pate with onion marmalade in a large seeded roll. It was delicious with a distinct kick in the filling.

It was an effort to continue but we shared pieces of toffee tiffin and flapjack. Once again the rating was high.

The food and tea was served on disposable plates and mugs perhaps because this is more popular as a take away business than an eat-in venue. Despite the time, there was still a steady flow of customers keeping the three assistants fully employed.

I thought it prudent not to enquire how the bill was made up, but for £9.75 we reckoned we had the best value for money and quality for many months.

Even if you decide not to snack here the extensive range of delicatessen products is in itself worth a visit.