THE upper reaches of Ryedale are a delight, especially around the sad and forlorn Dale Head Farm with its fine views across rolling pastures and woodland copse framed by swelling heather moors.

The climb up on to the huge moorland plateau of Arden Great Moor is also rewarded with superb panoramas across the North York Moors, including the distinctive nabs' of the Tabular Hills, wooded Ryedale and the central heather moors with the Bilsdale TV mast dominating.

The western edge of Arden Great Moor drops steeply down towards the flat Vale of York. This is the escarpment of the Hambleton Hills, along which runs the ancient Hambleton Street, now just a stony track. This was once an important drovers' road between Scotland and the market towns of York, Malton and the South of England.

This route was primarily used as a drovers' road from the 17th century until the early 19th century, when great herds of livestock were a common sight as they were being taken on hoof to satisfy the growing appetites of the burgeoning southern urban markets. The Chequers Inn, now a tea room, once served as a drovers' inn.

However, this road is one of the oldest in the country dating back much further than the days of the drovers to prehistoric times as such high-level routes avoided the more dangerous valley roads.

Unbelievably, 1,000 years ago this was classed as the main road between York and Yarm, where it crossed the River Tees and continued northwards towards the border with Scotland.

The road was used by the Roman legions, it is said that William the Conqueror came this way after his Harrying of the North in 1069 and in 1322 King Edward II and his army were pursued by Robert Bruce along this road after a fruitless campaign in Scotland, only to be beaten by the Scots at the Battle of Byland.

Black Hambleton stands as one of the highest points in the North York Moors and marks the northern end of the Hambleton Hills, beyond which the Cleveland Hills take over as they sweep round to the east above the vast Cleveland Plain.

Directions

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1 From Square Corner parking area (with your back to the parking area) turn right (east) along the moorland road and follow this gently rising up (with the bulk of Black Hambleton across to your right). The road soon levels out and leads on passing the boundary stone of Robinson's Cross on your right (sheltered by three mountain ash trees), 250 yards after which take the track to the right, marked by a signpost (this track is 0.75 miles from Square Corner). Follow this track down across the heather moorland to reach a gate in a fence after 150 yards, after which follow the track as it curves round to the left then leads straight on across moorland for 0.75 miles down to reach the abandoned Dale Head Farm.

2 As the grassy track reaches Dale Head Farm (with the old farmhouse just down to your left), you pass through a gateway in an old wall just beyond which follow the grassy bridleway bearing down to the left passing the wall corner of the front garden of Dale Head Farm then straight down across the middle of the field to reach a large footbridge across Bawderis Beck. After the footbridge, follow the narrow path gently rising up, with the stream down to your left. The path soon levels out and leads straight on across the heather-clad Locker Low Moor for almost 0.75 miles to reach a gate in a wall across your path (at the end of the moorland).

3 Do NOT head through this gate but turn right just before it along a rough hollow-way (sunken path) and follow this rising up across the boulder-strewn moorland, with the wall just across to your left. The gradient soon eases just above this boulder-strewn bank where you carry straight on along a clear path alongside the hollow-way that now leads very gradually up alongside the wall on your left for 0.25 miles, with Arden Great Moor rising up ahead of you. As you reach the foot of the steep bank of Arden Great Moor (100 yards before the wall on your left bends sharply away) you pick up a clear but rough track which you follow bearing to the right (away from the wall) slanting up across the steep hillside of Locker Bank (flanks of Arden Great Moor). Follow this slanting up across the moorland then, as you reach a shelf of land below the steeper upper slopes of Locker Bank, follow the rough track bending round to the left across the shelf of land then slanting up across the steep hillside (track becomes clearer) to reach the flat plateau on the top of Arden Great Moor and a clear shooters' track across your path.

4 Turn right along shooters' track (with Locker Bank falling away down to your right) and follow across Arden Great Moor for one mile, gradually curving round to the left to join the clear stony track of Hambleton Street at White Gill Head on the escarpment of the Cleveland Hills (signpost Cleveland Way'). Turn right along this track and follow it gradually rising up (wall on left and wonderful views across the Vale of York) for one mile to reach a large cairn beside the track at its highest point (Black Hambleton). Continue straight on along the stony track and follow it as it gradually drops down from Black Hambleton for a further 1.25 miles, skirting a large coniferous forest on your left for most of the way, back down to reach Square Corner.

Fact file

Distance: 6.5 miles.

Time: Allow three hours.

Map: OS Explorer Sheet OL26 North York Moors western area'.

Parking: Parking area at Square Corner, near the Chequers Tea Rooms above Osmotherley (Grid Ref: SE 479 959).

Refreshments: None en route; Chequers Tea Rooms near Square Corner.

Terrain: Clear grassy/stony tracks across moorland for most of the way, with short stretches along narrow moorland paths (boggy and rough in places). There is quite a steep climb up on to Arden Great Moor (390 metres), while the tracks across the high moorland are exposed to the elements.

Open Access land: The section from Locker Low Moor, up on to Arden Great Moor then across to join Hambleton Street heads across Open Access land. See local signs for information or visit www.openaccess.gov.uk NB: dogs are not permitted on this access land.

How to get there: From Osmotherley, follow a minor moorland road eastwards climbing up on to Thimbleby Moor to reach Square Corner. For public transport details phone 0870 608 2 608.

Caution: This walk involves a steep ascent up on to Arden Great Moor. After the recent heavy rain, small streams may be difficult to cross and many of the paths may be boggy underfoot. Never try to cross a swollen stream or river - if in doubt, turn back and re-trace your steps.