Mike Tipping explains why Riesling is his favourite white grape

11:32am Saturday 5th April 2008

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WHEN I can trick friends, colleagues, and sometimes complete strangers into talking about wine, I'm often asked to name my favourite wine. The truth is that I change my mind often, but only when it comes to reds.

At the moment I'm really enthusiastic about syrah, particularly examples from the northern Rhône. But a few months ago, I just couldn't slake my thirst for Kiwi pinot noir.

I'm not so fickle when it comes to white wine, however, and for me the queen of white grapes is riesling. I have a particular penchant for German riesling, but that's not the subject of this weeks Tipping's Tipples. I wanted to suggest a few dry rieslings but the German ones (actually they make a lot) are thin on the ground in this country and you're unlikely to find many in the multiples.

The good news is that there are plenty of New World dry rieslings, widely available and of good quality, too. Riesling's inherent racy acidity and palate-cleansing fruitiness makes it an ideal partner for spicy dishes such as Thai green curry and chicken tikka. It works beautifully with white fish dishes also and, assuming the wine is not too full and rich, it makes a refreshing aperitif.

Australia's Clare Valley and New Zealand's Marlborough region have already forged a reputation for good riesling, but watch out for the Bio-Bio valley, Chile's southernmost, coolest and wettest wine region, where riesling is coming on in leaps and bounds.

You could do a lot worse then investing in the following, and remember that riesling is a white that will improve with age if stored correctly.

Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling 2006 is steely dry and fresh, packing punchy lime and lemon flavours with a contrasting minerality. I've written about this wine before and it's consistently good, vintage after vintage Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling 2007, from New Zealand's Marlborough region, has a little bit more residual sugar but I'd still put it in the dry category. Actually it reminds me of a German riesling with its clean, citrus, peach and pear fruit, honeysuckle fragrances and minerals. The one to choose if you are thinking aperitif.

Whereas Concha y Toro Winemaker's Lot 20 Riesling 2005, from the Bio-Bio in Chile, demands food. It's full, complex and similar in style to a rich Alsace riesling. Because it's already got a bit of age to it, the characteristic kerosene notes of more mature riesling are present, with sweet and sour flavours of honey, apple, lemon pith, cinnamon and a good, zesty acidity.

Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling 2006, £8.19 at Tesco18/20

Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling 2007, around £8 at Thresher, Sainsbury's, Majestic and Waitrose 18/20

Concha y Toro Winemaker's Lot 20 Riesling 2005, £8.49 at Oddbins 18/20