What makes a modern wine?

9:57am Saturday 29th March 2008

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MODERN is a wine description that is banded around by those of us whose job it is to try to describe wines. I have decided that my three wine recommendations this week are very modern, but I guess it rather depends on what your definition of modern is.

This is mine. Firstly it will be either from the New World or from the Old using the New's winemaking techniques. It will be fruit-driven although that doesn't mean it has to be jammy.

It will probably be ready to drink now, but that is not to say it won't have any ageing potential. And the labels, front and back, will be easy to understand - if a touch flowery in some cases. It seems every winery has to have some tale on the back label about (delete as applicable) the devil, a dragon, a witch, some old bloke with a beard, or some cute, native, vineyard dwelling animal.

Mentioning no names but there are a number of branded Californian wines that are unlikely to make it into this column. I am impressed by a new listing at the Co-op however, Blackburn & James Merlot 2006 from the Paso Robles region between San Francisco and Los Angeles.

It is smooth and of an exceptionally easy style, full of sweet, ripe plums, blackcurrant, notes of chocolate, vanilla and spice. Mainly merlot, it has a small proportion of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc in the blend.

There are a couple of modern reds worth filling your trolley with at Tesco. Both feature in the supermarket's Spring Wine Festival promotion, which runs until April 22.

Tuck into Mad Bay Shiraz 2005 from Western Australia. This wine is great fun and not too sweet or wood heavy, as some Aussie reds can be. Enticing cassis and vanilla aromas lead to bright berry fruit flavours, liquorice, spices, round tannins and nicely integrated oak notes.

Or head to the Robertson region of South Africa for a modern blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot. Danie de Wet Limestone Hill Classic Red 2006 is quite concentrated stuff, with aromas of dark fruits, flavours of raspberry, plum, cassis, cola, coffee and vanilla held together by subtle tannins.

Blackburn & James Merlot 2006, £6.99 at the Co-op 16/20

Mad Bay Shiraz 2005, £6.29 down from £8.99 at Tesco until April 22 18/20

Danie de Wet Limestone Hill Classic Red 2006, £5.79 down from £7.99 at Tesco until April 22 17/20