York Festival Of Food And Drink

I've been Rioja-ing around the clock this week, sampling a few of the wines which will be there for the tasting at St William's College soon.

The Rioja Roadshow will be held on September 10 in the historic building, which is just a cork's throw away from York Minster.

The evening, which is part of the York Festival of Food and Drink, runs from 6 to 8pm.

The old complaint about Rioja wines was that often there was just too much oak and not enough fruit in the mix (well for us New World wine fans anyway). Judging by the roadshow wines that I've sampled, this is a problem that has been addressed.

Made entirely from the tempranillo grape, Vina Pomal Crianza 2000 is a good example.

A modern wine but one that keeps some of the Rioja's charm. That ancient oakiness is noticeable, as it should be, but this wine has a jammy side too. There are redcurrant flavours and soft tannins coupled with sweet vanilla notes. Rich and quaffable. Vina Pomal wines are soon to be stocked at the Great Northern Wine Company, Ripon.

Another modern-style Rioja is Montecillo Reserva 1998 which blackberry pips the Vina Pomal to the post in the fruitiness stakes. It's also 100 per cent tempranillo, with a good measure of oak and the aforementioned fruit flavour. Smooth and elegant.

It has to be said that although I enjoy a "good Rioja", it wouldn't be my first choice of wine. I can think of many wines that suit my taste better.

This doesn't stop me appreciating a good wine when I taste one and Vina Ardanza Reserva 1998 is just fantastic.

It's dry, rich, full and rippling with oak flavours and sassy tannins. It is warming stuff with lingering cranberry and hints of underipe plum and is just the sort of thing a wine enthusiast would like to find in their Christmas stocking. Vina Ardanza Reserva 1998 is available from Sainsbury's at £16.49.

Festival dates

The York Festival of Food and Drink programme is now finalised. You can find more details on the festival website, www.yorkfestivaloffoodanddrink.com or by calling the ticket hotline on 08706 021113.

Some of the highlights for wine fans include:

Rioja tasting, £10, St William's College, September 10, 6 to 8pm

Champagne Tasting with Charles Metcalfe, £30, Bettys Belmont Room, September 11, 7.30pm

Yorkshire Sunday Lunch with Charles Metcalfe, £25, Melton's Restaurant,

September 12, 12.30 for 1pm

Wines with the cheeses of Northern England, £10, Melton's Too, September 15, 7.30pm

Oddbins Wine Fair and Tasting, £10, Guildhall, September 16, from 7.30pm

Supper with Port, £18, St William's College, September 17, 7.30pm

Oxford Landing Tasting, £2, Festival Food Theatre Cafe, September 18, 3pm

Wine and Chocolate Tasting, £10, Bettys Belmont Room, September 18, 7.30pm

Winemaker's Lunch, £25, Dean Court Hotel, September 19, 12.00 for 12.30

(tickets from the Dean Court on 01904 625082 for the lunch and tasting of

Australian Yalumba wines)

Updated: 16:02 Friday, August 27, 2004