MAXINE GORDON enjoys some revs as well as relaxation on a spa break with a difference

I FELT like I was on a rollercoaster on the drive from York to Coniston Cold. After leaving Harrogate, the road narrowed and had more dips and blind summits than a ride at Flamingo Land.

But it was all good preparation for my first off-road driving experience.

My husband Nick and I were enjoying a pre-Christmas break at the Coniston Hotel Country Estate and Spa, near Skipton.

If you love country pursuits or are tempted by the idea of living like a lord or lady of the manor for the weekend, then this is the place to come.

Besides a 4X4 driving experience, there is a falconry centre as well as fishing by the lake which is at the heart of this 1,400-acre rural retreat.

And if none of these are your thing, then there is a modern spa, set in an unrivalled location with stunning views over the lake and dales.

Home to the Bannister family for more than decades, the hotel originally started life as a farm shop selling produce from the estate.

With so much on offer, the challenge was where to begin. After the drive over from York, the last thing I felt like doing was tearing round the off-road course in a Land Rover Defender.

The spa sounded more tempting. It was a good decision. After a few laps in the indoor pool, I braved the chilly weather for a plunge in the outdoor hot tub. It's well worth finding some courage because the experience is one to savour: your body nicely pummelled by the forceful jets as you take in the beauty of the landscape. If there is a nicer setting for a hotel spa in Britain I want to know where.

The relaxation continued with a full-body massage. Nick and I were booked into the couples room where two therapists worked side by side easing away all the knots and tensions in our bodies. Sheer bliss.

A colleague told us afternoon tea at the Coniston was not to be missed – so this was our next mission to accomplish. There was a festive flavour to the offering, including a turkey and cranberry sandwich and a mini chocolate mousse topped with cream and clementine – all washed down with a pot of tea and a glass of steaming and warmly spiced mulled wine.

Food at the hotel cannot be faulted and we enjoyed a tasty evening dinner in the Macleod's restaurant where the highlight was a dreamy main course of pan-fried hake upon soft creamy mash and mussels in a light, lemon broth. Breakfasts were plentiful and traditional with a range of self-service continental options as well as hot dishes cooked to order from the kitchen.

Day two began with a date with the Land Rover Defender. After a briefing from our tutor on how to drive this monster of a machine, we were let loose on the purpose-built course which is not for the faint-hearted. Being more cowardly than courageous, I let Nick go first and looked on in awe and alarm as he carefully steered the metal beast up muddy mounds, down flights of stairs and through pools of water. At one point as Nick mounted a side bank, we titled about 30 degrees and I had to grab the roof handle to steady myself.

I was in two minds about having a go. Too often I chicken out of anything that looks (a) too scary (b) too dangerous (c) too scary and dangerous. So it was against my better judgement what I swapped places with Nick and took the driving seat. I was trying to ignore the cautionary tales revealed in the introductory spiel about vehicles tipping over and drivers injuring their thumbs by steering incorrectly as I snapped my seatbelt into place.

I slipped into first gear and the vehicle lurched forward. Moving at what seemed like a snail's pace, we slowly moved around the course, effortlessly climbing and descending obstacles, turning and tilting – just as Nick had done – and without harm to the vehicle or ourselves. The secret is taking it easy and being steady and focussed on the steering at all times. The Defender seems to almost drive itself and we were both in awe of its capabilities and agreed we'd love to do it again.

No visit to the hotel should be complete without a session at the falconry centre. Nick and I spent a good hour flying some beautiful birds of prey, from a tiny barm owl to the impressive Bengal Eagle Owl, which kept clipping our heads with its wings as it took off and landed on our outstretched arms.

Watching the birds fly against the incredible dales vista was a magical sight to behold – and one to highly recommend.

Fact file

The Coniston Hotel Country Estate and Spa, Coniston Cold, Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 4EA

T: 01756 748080

W: theconistonhotel.com