THE GODFATHER of Italian cooking was in York yesterday, to launch his new flagship restaurant in a landmark city building.

Antonio Carluccio was also marking his 80th birthday, which fell just two days before the opening party for the new Carluccio’s bar and restaurant in the former Terry’s shop on St Helen’s Square.

The legendary chef praised the historic building, saying his restaurants did not want just any venue, but special locations like the historic former chocolate shop were worth waiting for.

He said: “It’s wonderful, it reminds me very much of cafes in Turin. Turin was also a city very much connected with chocolate, and there are three or four cafes in the major streets which are panelled like this building, and still selling chocolates the old fashioned way. It is lovely.”

The significance of the building played a big part in the decision to bring another branch of the restaurant to York, he added.

“Carluccio’s doesn’t need any premises, it needs a good premises.”

The venue is opening this weekend as Carluccio’s northern flagship site, and it the company’s first to host a bar as well as a restaurant - with some nods to the city’s chocolate heritage on the drinks menu.

It was not the chef’s first visit to York, he said, but his memories of the city are vague.

“I was here with Keith Floyd in a hotel.

“We ordered a bottle of whisky, he drank three-quarters and I drank a quarter, so I can’t remember anything!

“It was very pleasant but I didn’t see the town properly. I know that it is a very important town, and I like cultural aspects in a town.”

Even at 80, Antonio said it was very important for him to stay involved in the restaurants that carry his name.

He said: “It’s very important that the quality is maintained. As we become bigger and bigger, this is the art now to keep that going and to keep the philosophy.”

The bigger the volumes mean they can no longer do everything themselves and he has had to accept compromise, he added.

“The big ‘but’ is not the fact that we accept anything, but if something has been produced outside it has to be from a company that I know that do the real thing, and I will check it.

“When you keep it like this it’s OK.

“The most important thing in Italian food is the taste, and if you take that away - that’s it.”

Good food is also the key to long life, Antonio said:

“It’s a good balance of very good food, not thinking the stomach is a dustbin, and eating just enough to be happy and mentally happy.

“You can satisfy the stomach, but if you eat something nice and gentle that makes the mind happy as well.”