Former senior police officer MIKE I’ANSON, who swapped villains for violets in his role as manager of Helmsley Walled Garden, cuts to the chase with pruning.

WITH more than 72 varieties of apples, as well as pears and plums, it takes about two months to complete our summer pruning. Last week, however, mundane events interrupted me with a dash to the cash-and-carry for loo rolls.

Returning, I came across a lady of advanced years walking with two sticks up Oswaldkirk Bank. As she was doubled over, I stopped to check she was okay. Looking up, she commented that ants can carry an awful lot on their backs and how fascinating it was to watch them. After agreeing with her and exchanging pleasantries, she continued up the hill and I came back to continue pruning.

Summer pruning is undertaken on fruit trees grown in a restricted format, forms such as espaliers, cordons, step-overs and fans. The essential difference is that apples and pears grow fruit on old wood, whereas, plums fruit best on wood that is two to four years old.

So when pruning fan-trained plums we periodically select a new branch to tie in and train to maintain shape and productivity.

But what to cut out and what to keep?

With apples and pears, prune to maintain form and encourage new fruit buds. Look for leaves in a cluster around a bud; these are most likely to produce fruit spurs next year. Cut back new growth longer than 20cm to three to five leaves above the basal growth (the cluster of leaves), these shoots will be woody along the bottom third of growth. This encourages development of fruit buds, removes excess growth and allows light in to ripen the apples. Also remove any vigorous upright growth.

You can leave one or two vigorous shoots as sap drawers. They stop secondary growth, which can be damaged by frost and can be cut off in spring. For plums, cut back any lateral growth not needed for framework to five to six leaves and take out any damaged or diseased wood. Try to keep pruning on plums to a minimum as they are prone to diseases that can enter through pruning cuts.

We’re often asked how to tell when an apple is ready, to which there is no definitive answer. Books will advise, but here in the North, we are three weeks behind the South and a cold or warm start to the year will also affect timing.

Fruit fall is an indicator but open the fruit and check the pips. If they’re not brown, the reason for dropping is not ripeness. Not all the fruit will ripen at the same time, so harvest daily if possible. Pick the brightest apples, lifting gently and giving a slight twist – apple and stalk should come away easily.

If you fancy growing fruit in a restricted format, the first book I would recommend would be The Fruit Expert by Dr DG Hessayon.

Alternatively, visit us here at Helmsley or at Harrogate Flower Show on September 12 to 14 when we will be manning the Pip to Press stand giving advice on fruit growing.