by Alex Willmott

When the team from Leeds Brewery took over the old Plunkets restaurant space in High Petergate, they refurbished the building and decided to restore the Eagle and Child name in the process, almost 100 years after it was axed.

And fair play, the result is a refreshing blend of smart/casual with authenticity in abundance and enough great beer to refresh an army.

When you step inside the pub you're quickly hit by wood (not like that). The decor is clean and chunky from the thick, sturdy chairs to the unusually tall bar. And with a simple but modern colour scheme throughout, it feels like the sort of pub that grown up hipsters would frequent.

As for the name? It's a resurrection of a name used by a pub in Shambles until 1925, and by another in Pavement in the 1500s.

At the front of the pub, the huge bay windows create an ideal spot to watch the rushing crowds and declutter the noggin.

It's clear that the brewery wasn't interested in throwing money at the unnecessary junk that so many new spots seem to love. You'll find no antique sewing machines or Elizabethan spoons in the Eagle and Child. But what you will find is a great space to enjoy an absolute solid selection of beverages that cater for the novice and connoisseur alike.

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At the front bar you're faced with four very tempting guest hand-pulls. Lord Marples (Thornbridge) Reckless (Red Willow) a Bad Seed Brewery ale and the one I couldn't resist - Brass Castle's Ginger Marmalade beer...without a doubt the best beer I've tasted all year; well done to the Malton team!

At the centre bar you're greeted with a fridge full of great beers, lagers and fruity numbers; but that's not all. Nestled between the bottled Moretti, Timmermans and Duvel, is in my opinion the best beer ever bottled.... Ladies and gentlemen, they sell Kwak! If you haven't had one of these Belgian beauties yet, stop what you're doing and head to the Eagle and Child when it's safe and clear to do so. It's going to be okay.

The four hand-pulls at the centre bar boast of Leeds Brewery favourites - Leeds Pale, Yorkshire Gold, Leeds Best and Midnight Bell. The brewery has also stocked its keg regulars too, including Monsoon, Hell Fire, Leodis, and Gathering Storm.

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As it was: Plunkets, which closed earlier this year

What strikes the customer early on is how clued-up the staff are. It's clear they're actually interested in beer and want to provide others with the right environment to enjoy a pint. I was served by a very pleasant chap who looked like the son of Gandalf. Like his colleagues, he knew a thing or two about hops but didn't feel the need to boast about it.

The food befits the atmosphere, big, honest and impressive. Great portions compliment a solid bar menu. As I enjoyed a Cajun Chicken wrap with chips as big as chimneys, I heard at least five guests comment on how 'nice' the place looked.

Considering the finish of the pub and the demographic of its revellers, it's obvious that people come here for three things; quality beer, good food and a conversation-friendly environment. With pockets of seating areas situated on both floors and a stunningly ancient-looking snug upstairs, there's a lot more space than the pub might suggest to passers by.

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If you're looking for a twee and colourful watering hole, full of distractions and snobby barkeeps, don't come here. This place is for those who are passionate about discovering and rediscovering the ever-evolving respite that is a great pint. There's background music, sure; but it's set at an appropriate volume for guests to chat or sit back and take stock. The staff are enthusiastic but not overbearing. And the beer is top drawer.

Would I take my wife here? Yes. Would I take my mates here? Yes. Will it be here in ten years time? I bloody hope so.