Gavin Aitchison gives some German beers the thumbs-up.

THERE were steins all round on Toft Green last week.

I had headed to the German-style bar in the old Tokyo nightclub site, but when I stopped at York Brewery, I found the theme had spread.

On the bar was Ein Stein Bitte, an excellent IPA with Vienna malt and with Einstein’s face on the pump clip. It’s 5.5 per cent and put me in the mood for the German brews down the road.

The Stein Bier Keller opened last October and there have been many busy weekends, accompanied by popular if cliche-laden oompah music.

It was quieter when I popped in, which gave me a chance to chat to manager Jonathan Grasty and sample the wares.

There are American, Belgian and English beers, a concession to those seeking familiarity, but the German ones are the main focus. I enjoyed Köstritzer Schwarzbier, a very dark beer with a smokey malt flavour and an even stronger aroma, then Eggenberg Hopfenkönig, a crisp, pale pilsner.

The bar initially opened only towards the end of the week, but now opens daily.

 

THE Minster Inn in Marygate, York, has a meet-the-brewer event from 7pm on Thursday, with Jeremy Pettman, head brewer of Jennings, co-hosted by landlord Dave Roberts and pub history expert Dave Gamston.

 

SOMETIMES I feel sorry for the old, established breweries.

For generations, they had things their own way. They produced great beers, gained respect and stood the test of time - only for their world to be turned upside down.

In recent years, often through no fault of their own, many have been made to look tired; shown up by the upstart newbies who have revolutionised Britain’s beer scene.

Old hands have had to work out how to retain their allure in a fickle market place; how to avoid looking like desperate politicians trying to woo the young. David Cameron sought to hug a hoody; these breweries want to hug a craft beer drinker. It can be cringe-worthy.

Some have handled the transition adroitly. Brains in Cardiff remains proud of its Victorian roots and its long-standing cask ales - but produces exciting and experimental new beers on its additional 15-barrel “Craft Brewery” line. Others have tried to ride the wave - only to tie themselves up in knots.

Twice recently in York pubs, I have tried bottled beers by respected old breweries and been impressed by the beer but baffled by the branding.

Lincolnshire’s Bateman’s Brewery is a fantastic outfit whose beers I have long enjoyed. Its Bohemian Beers bottled range is a confusing beast, however. The concept is confusing, the branding bizarre, the beers mixed.

It’s Mocha Amaretto beer, at The Waggon and Horses in Lawrence Street, is very enjoyable. It reminded me of an almond porter I had in Italy two years ago. But I recoiled when I saw the “Bottling the past” soundbite on the label, a trite piece of nothingness about a beer style that is far from historic.

It was the same at The Falcon Tap in Micklegate. Belhaven’s Twisted Thistle is a commendable IPA, rebranded last year and available in several York pubs. But the labelling is odd.

“Belhaven - or The Beautiful Harbour - nestles among the rolling barley fields of Scotland’s beautiful east coast,” reads the collar label. “For nearly 300 years, we have brewed in this place using only the finest local ingredients.”

The new range, it says, continues that tradition. All well and good - but not if you’re going to trumpet the beer on the back as your “flagship American-style IPA” containing hops grown far from the lowlands of Scotland.

Seek out the beers. But there’s something very dad-on-the-dancefloor about the branding.