APPARENTLY Riesling wines were given a bad name 20 years ago by low standard fake copies - made from higher-yielding grapes like Silvaner and Muller-Thurgau - being exported cheaply from the German market.

But to hell with that reputation. Riesling is a high-quality white, the best of the lot according to many critics, and this column has become a big fan, especially when it creates a high-class dry tipple.

A light-skinned, aromatic grape originating in Germany, where it remains probably the most important variety, Riesling can make dry, sweet and even sparkling wines.

In recent decades it has found homes in wine's New World, with Australia and New Zealand producing their own cracking examples.

The German and Austrian produce tends to have apple and tree fruit notes and high acidity.

In warmer parts of Austria, or Alsace over the German-French border where the grape is grown plentifully, they have more citrus notes. Down under, meanwhile, Riesling has lime characteristics.

A cracker from that part of the world is currently on discount offer at Sainsbury's - the Howard Park Mount Barker Riesling, down from £15 to £13 until November 1.

It has received mixed reviews but the few middling marks may well be due to high expectations from the price. We liked it.

Hailing from Western Australia, it is full of interesting character - delicate yet seemingly stubborn in providing flavour. Free run juice is used in the wine and what you get is zestiness and a fresh, crisp palate of some length.

Try with Thai green curry for lime joy.

Back in the grape's original homeland, there is a very different Riesling at Waitrose by the name Dr L Grey Slate, a private reserve offering from the Loosen Bros.

It's classed as medium dry on the bottle - which has a unique bluey-greeny-grey hue - but it seems much sweeter than that, heading towards a sparkling flavour. It's a light 10.5 per cent too.

There are citrus notes, appley pear and some stone note on the palate, and some dryness at the back.

It'd be good with fresh fish, possibly veal in cream sauce, on an easy midweek evening.

The drier Riesling wins it for us but that's just personal preference and this is still a classy number, on at £9.99.

Just down the aisle at Waitrose, meanwhile, is a Grant Burge Chardonnay, which is down from £9.49 to £6.99 until November 1.

Hailing from South Australia and made by an award-winning fifth-generation winemaker, this medium-bodied 13 per cent wine combines yellow peach and pineapple aromas with hints of creme brulee and has a little butteriness and a crisp finish.

The immediate thought on first sip is akin to "crikey, what's this?!" especially after a sweeter number beforehand. But give it a chance - it's a grower.

It's got enough about it to have on its own but it would also go with creamy fish or a chicken salad.