WANT an idea of how precious Rioja can be?

In 1635, the mayor of a town called Logrono apparently made it illegal for carts to travel streets that ran alongside wine cellars because of fears the vibrations would disturb the wine below.

That’s how precious. No wonder they seal their bottles in gold wire netting.

Like Chianti, Rioja is not a grape varietal but a winemaking region, in northern Spain. It’s a pretty important one, too.

They’ve had wine here since before Roman times, with a specific “Rioja” made by monks documented as far back as 873. (Good old monks, they knew a thing or two about spiritual satisfaction.)

But enough of the history lesson. Well, nearly enough.

The region is famed for its reds, a distinct characteristic of which is the effect of oak ageing - which was first introduced here in the 1700s (a century after cart joyriders became a nuisance). Oak and vanilla flavours have to this day been a virtual trademark.

However, there are slight differences from one bottle to the next, and not only due to the wine's age, from young Rioja through crianza and reserva to gran reserva.

There are also sub-divisions of the region – Alta (higher up mountains), Alavesa (dodgy soil means vines have to be further apart to get nutrients) and Baja (warmer and drier).

Then there's the blend - the black Tempranillo is the main grape, giving full flavour, but is usually mixed with a bit of Garnacha, Mazuelo and/or Graciano for body and aroma.

Take three Rioja Reserva (aged at least three years, at least one in oak) in Sainsbury’s splendid wine aisle: a Marques de Montino 2009 (£9); a Herederos del Marques de Riscal 2010 (£14); and a Baron de la Vinas 2009 (£10 down to £7 until Tuesday). Then throw in a Baron Amarillo 2009 Reserva, from the award-winning wine section at Aldi (£5.49).

The Montino is full-flavoured, with a lovely earthiness and a long finish, while the Riscal, aged 26 months in oak barrels, is lighter yet persistent on the palate.

The Baron de la Vinas, aged 24 months in oak, is vibrant, rich and elegant, while the Amarillo is arguably the most vanilla of the four and with deeper oak spices having aged in casks for three years.

The Riscal was probably our pick (before we compared prices), but with such subtle differences amid strong Rioja-ness across all four, preference could change from one sip to the next.

They’d all go with red meats, grills, red peppers and full-flavoured cheeses. Most can also handle Indian food according to my Rioja-loving Indian chef mate, Norm.

Just beware when storing bottles that carts aren't going past your house.

* THE reader of this column may recall a feature on the English wines that infiltrated the recent York Beer Festival.

Well, the next of the popular wine tasting events at the Walmgate Ale House & Bistro in York will focus on English wines too, with punters guided through some sparklers, whites and reds produced by English vineyards, alongside a two-course meal.

It's on next Friday, with tickets £30 per person. To book, email greatfood@walmgateale.co.uk or phone 01904 629222.