FAMOUS for its imposing castle overlooking the River Tees, Barnard Castle was a stronghold of some of the most ruthless families in England.
Once owned by the Earls of Warwick and the Nevill family, it was claimed by the powerful Bishops of Durham.
The castle was besieged in the 16th century but never beaten.
But there is more to Barnard Castle than the castle. It has a fine market place dominated by the Market Cross which was used as a butter market.
Other uses over the years for the cross were as a court and jail. On top of the building is a fine weathervane.
Look carefully and you will see two holes in the metal flag at the rear which are, in fact, bullet holes. In 1803, two men, a gamekeeper and a soldier, standing outside the Turks Head Inn, were boasting who was the best shot. To decide the argument they raised their guns and aimed at the weathervane.
The result: two holes close together proved they were equal. But wait a minute, I think they were aiming at the finial, a much smaller target, and missed. Not such good shots after all.
Just outside the town is Bowes Museum, a magnificent building in the style of a French Chateau. The museum was created by John Bowes and his French wife, who filled it with a magnificent collection of antiquities.
John Bowes was a successful businessman who travelled to Paris in 1847. He bought a theatre and met the Parisian actress Joséphine Coffin- Chevallier whom he married in 1852.
Joséphine was a talented amateur painter who was interested in a whole range of art forms, including paintings, ceramics, furniture and textiles.
John and Josephine decided to return to John’s home town, build a museum and fill it with the grand collection we see today. The museum also houses a life-size silver swan, which is more than 200 years old.
The swan is mechanical and each day it lifts a fish from a salver and swallows it.
Along the way you pass Raby Castle, another magnificent building to explore, but that is a story to tell another day.
Your route
Start from the old Butter Cross in Horse Market. Cycle along Newgate signed to Whorlton and Bowes Museum. Pass the museum on your left, soon passing through Westwick as the road narrows. Enjoy the views from here then carry on to Whorlton.
Turn left here signed to Bishop Auckland. Soon you meet the A67.
Cross with care to the road opposite signed to Staindrop. At the T-junction go left, still following the Staindrop signs and start to descend into the village of Little Newsham. Continue along through South Cleatlam and soon you arrive at Staindrop.
Go right here onto the A688 through Staindrop where there is a tea shop and a pub for refreshment.
Continue along the A688, now following signs for Bishop Auckland.
You pass the imposing building of Raby Castle on the left then, in about a mile, turn left signed to Cockfield and Burnt Houses. Follow signs for Burnt Houses and Butterknowle.
Cycle through Burnt Houses, climbing towards the houses on the ridge ahead, following the Butterknowle signs.
A long, steep descent now to a Tjunction.
Go right here, then left to Butterknowle. Climbing again through the village, pass the pub now following signs for Woodland and Copley.
At the T-junction go right onto the B6282 into Copley then climb more steeply to the ridge village of Woodland. At the junction go left, still on the B6282, with great views all round on the descent only to be followed by an ascent as you climb up to the moors. Pass a peculiar building on the right then turn left at the sign for Barnard Castle and Kinninvie.
Downhill now on a narrow, bumpy road – watch out for the double bends. Soon you start to ascend again to Kinninvie and a crossroads.
Go straight ahead here, signed to Barnard Castle, down a long, straight road to soon go left, signed to Stainton. At the crossroads turn right, signed to Barnard Castle, then at the T-junction go left, still following the Barnard Castle sign, which takes you back to the town.
the facts
Distance – 25miles/40km
Terrain – Easy with some long ascents
Best map – OS Landranger 92
Start/grid ref – Barnard Castle Horse Market Butter Cross, grid ref: 053168
Refreshments – Plenty in Barnard Castle, pubs along the way
Public toilets – Barnard Castle
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