Where ski dreams do come true (From York Press)

Where ski dreams do come true

11:56am Saturday 14th January 2012 in Holiday reviews

Ski novice CHARLOTTE PERCIVAL-GONZALEZ takes to the Canadian slopes for a breathtaking winter vacation.

A hearty breakfast is apparently the best way to start an action-packed day on the slopes – well, not if you’re a nervous beginner.

Staring up at Lake Louise – the mountain I’m going to wet my skis on in a few hours – I can feel my tea and ‘sunrise sandwich’ swirling.

Never having set foot on a piste, I’ve chosen one of the most beautiful – and biggest – to start on, in Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada.

With one of the longest ski seasons in North America, the UNESCO World Heritage Site also boasts three of the most scenic resorts, under the tagline of Big 3; Lake Louise, Sunshine Village and Mount Norquay. Together, they offer almost 8,000 acres of skiable terrain, 274 runs and more than 30 feet of annual snowfall.

The double black diamonds are not for the faint hearted (check out the YouTube videos), but there are four mountain faces to try, green runs from every chairlift and fantastic beginner facilities.

Although we Brits tend to flock to Europe for our après ski, there’s so much fun to be had in Canada’s protected playground.

British ski teacher Donna Gallop returns each winter, shunning European resorts for uncrowded Canadian slopes.

She’s quick to set my nerves at rest as we make our way to the beginner hill – which looks pretty imposing to my untrained eyes.

“There’s something for everybody, so you take it at your own pace,” she reassures. “You’ve got the black diamonds, you’ve got wide-open bowls, tree-lined glades, miles of groomed and ungroomed terrain, and it’s so much quieter than Europe. Look around you now – this is a busy day. That’s why I keep coming back.”

The views can’t be beaten. With 119 largely empty white runs reaching towards the sky, it’s easy to see why Lake Louise wins awards for its skiing and its scenery. And you don’t have to choose between resorts; the Big 3 have tri-area lift tickets, which can be used at all three and include free shuttle transportation.

You can literally follow the snow forecast to the freshest powder.

For Dutch courage before hitting Lake Louise, tubing at Mount Norquay is a great way to enjoy the snow, spinning down icy slopes in rubber rings.

But now I was wearing skis, embarrassed by the four year olds shooting down the mountain like they skied out of the womb, and determined to give it a shot.

Learning the basics with Donna, I calm down, and manage the magic carpet and T-bar lifts. After a few (successful) attempts at snowploughing down the beginner slope, I decide to go it alone for an hour and promptly fall over.

I also nearly wipe out a snowboarder but, after gaining a bruise to be proud of, decide I’ve fallen in love with skiing and wished I had more time to learn.

Donna also takes us on the gondola, which stays open through the summer, for mountain-top vistas of the Rockies and Lake Louise. Outside of ski season, it’s not unusual to see a bear chomping the grass beneath you. Elk, wolves and coyote are frequent visitors too.

The next day, we hear about the wildlife again, this time on our way to a dog sledding tour at Spray Lakes Provincial Park.

“Don’t let dogs off a leash,” warns our driver, ferrying us over sheer ice on a beautiful but petrifying mountain pass. “They’ll run off, could startle a bear, then what happens? They run back to you and you have an angry bear in your face.”

The huskies don’t seem bothered by this impending threat, though, and as we pull up to the clearing, 200 yelping dogs are tearing at their tethers.

“They know it’s time to go,” says our musher, Logan, attaching them to the sleds. “You can hear them getting excited.”

As the dogs race on to the snowy woodland trail, my husband, John, stands on the sled with Logan, jumping off to help pull uphill. I keep warm under the blankets, enjoying the views of the frozen Spray Lake.

It’s breathtaking; still and silent, the snow gently falling, the dogs patting over the trail. Between the trees, the lake spreads far and wide, mountains in the distance.

Determined not to be outdone by John, I try mushing too, holding on for dear life as the dogs race downhill, snow and wind in our faces.

It feels fantastic, but I’m glad Logan controls the ropes. He has seen sleds fly by without owners, he laughs, but only on tours without guides on every sled.

Tour operators stress to wear warm clothing; listen to them! Even if it doesn’t feel cold at your hotel, even though the sleds have blankets, your fingers and toes will want to die.

We learned our lesson on a sleigh ride in Banff. Snuggled up under buffalo skins, snow falling, sleigh bells jingling, our frozen fingers struggled to pour the complimentary liquor through thick mittens.

Our guide – a cowboy all his life – fared hardier in a cowboy hat and leather jacket. Him, his father before him and now his son, make their living taking horse tours into the mountains.

Of course, everyone wants to see the wildlife. The bears are hibernating now, but there’s still plenty to see. “You see a lot of wolves and elk, right there,” he says, pointing out a coyote watching us from a distance.

As a town, Banff is charming, authentic and unspoiled. There are mountain views and plentiful shops and restaurants but, it can be pricey.

We decided that room service in our hotel, The Fairmont Banff Springs, would cost about the same as a meal out – and was a lot more comfortable after a day of winter sports. A soak in its heated outdoor pool and hot chocolate from the outdoor ice bar were most welcome too.

We left Banff with amazing photos, a taste for skiing and bruises a ski bunny would be proud of.

Fact file

Flights: Air Transat flies direct from Manchester to Calgary airtransat.com Prices start at £159 each way (including taxes).

Hotel: The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel fairmont.com/banffsprings

Activities: Skiing at Lake Louise: skilouise.com; Husky sledding: howlingdogtours.com; Sleigh ride at Warner Stables: horseback.com; Tubing at Norquay: banffnorquay.com/tubing/