Rescuing the tarnished reputation of merlot (From York Press)

Rescuing the tarnished reputation of merlot

9:55am Saturday 22nd October 2011 in Tipping's Tipples By Mike Tipping

In this week’s Tipping’s Tipples, MIKE TIPPING suggests three wines to rescue the tarnished reputation of merlot.

I cannot recall meeting anyone who names merlot as their favourite red. However, I do know wine drinkers who dislike merlot intensely, avoiding the grape at all costs, rather like Miles, the lead character in the award-winning 2004 film, Sideways.

I can’t use the full quote from the screenplay, which illustrates what Miles thinks of merlot, but here’s the censored version, “If anyone orders merlot, I’m leaving. I am not drinking any (insert expletive) merlot.”

There were even reported drops in sales of merlot, both in the US and UK, following the film’s release.

Perhaps we should not be as obstinate as Miles? Let’s give merlot a chance.

It’s easy to sneer at such an unfashionable grape, I’m the first to admit it can be a very lackluster, single varietal, but it can also be very good.

How many of us would turn our nose up at a merlot-driven Grand Cru Saint-Émilion for instance, or a bottle of Pétrus from the Pomerol appellation? Indeed, merlot rules Bordeaux’s right bank. Not that the winemakers of Bordeaux have the monopoly of good merlot. I’ve chosen three New World examples of the grape this week, the perfect antidotes to the autumnal chill.

Errazuriz Estate Merlot 2010, from Chile is widely available, juicy and very appealing.

Damsons, raspberries and cassis dominate the palate, with notes of vanilla, oak spice and cocoa.

From Durbanville in South Africa, there is De Grendel Merlot 2008.

This is rich, spicy and full-bodied, with toasty, smoky oak, black plums, brambles and liquorice.

Or Mud House Merlot 2009, from the Hawkes Bay region of New Zealand is in an Old-World-meets-New-World style, neither too restrained nor too jammy.

With soft tannins it is approachable, revealing flavours of spiced plum, forest fruits and dark chocolate on the finish.

Wine list

Errazuriz Estate Merlot 2010, widely available for £8.99 18/20.

De Grendel Merlot 2008, Durbanville, £10.99 at Chez Vin in Otley 18/20.

Mud House Merlot 2009, Hawkes Bay, £11.95 from slurp.co.uk 17/20.