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10:52am Saturday 8th October 2011 in Tipping's Tipples
By Mike Tipping
Forget tomato sauce or vinegar, in this week’s Tipping’s Tipples, MIKE TIPPING picks three bottles perfect with fish and chips.
My attention was drawn to a press release from the Conseil des Vins Saint-Émilion on the 2011 vintage. It made me chuckle.
Headed: 2011 – The Master Craftsmen’s Vintage, the report states that: “This was a demanding vintage, which forced our winegrowers to throw away the text book.” In other words it’s been a rubbish year in the vineyard!
I shouldn’t criticise, however, I quite often use euphemisms myself, especially during awkward moments at wine tastings. One such moment that springs up from time to time comes directly after the question: “So what do you think?”
The scenario is this, I am being asked by a winemaker for an opinion on his or her wine, the wine I’ve just tasted. The truth is that the wine is dull.
I don’t like to be blunt in these instances, it doesn’t seem polite. So I’m likely to say that the wine perhaps need a little longer to open out, or that it is still young. Or my stock answer: “Mmm, it’s interesting.”
Sometimes these euphemisms backfire though. Once, in my desire not to sound too negative about a rather acidic chardonnay, I said it would go well with fish and chips. I hadn’t meant to be so insulting!
I don’t know if this week’s recommendations were made by master craftsmen, either with or without their text books. But, and it is not meant in a bad way, this trio of wines will match well with fish and chips.
Léon Beyer Sylvaner 2010 is an very quaffable, dry white from Alsace. With subtle notes of peach, pear, white flowers, spice and lots of minerality, it refreshes the palate beautifully.
Whereas, Sensas Sauvignon 2010, Côtes de Gascogne, will suit those who like more punchy flavours. This is a good-value example, fresh, approachable and not too aggressive, with gooseberry, green pea and green pepper.
Or opt for Esk Valley Riesling 2010, from Marlborough, New Zealand. Just off-dry, it is quite rich and will work particularly well with spicy fish dishes. It has pronounced flavours of lime, notes of honey and hints of kerosene.
Léon Beyer Sylvaner 2010, Alsace, £7.95 from The Wine Society 17/20.
Sensas Sauvignon 2010, Côtes de Gascogne, £7.49 at Majestic 17/20.
Esk Valley Riesling 2010, Marlborough, £10.49 at Slurp.co.uk 17/20.
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