Three reasons to like Riesling (From York Press)

Three reasons to like Riesling

10:03am Saturday 23rd January 2010 in

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IF THE organisers of the Finger Lakes Riesling Festival 2010 would like to invite me to pay it a visit, I would be happy to attend. Held in upstate New York, it’s a sizeable get-together, which last year attracted 25,000 people.

From what I can work out, it involves ‘tasting’ riesling from local wineries and eating lots of food. As far as I’m concerned, if a well known lager brand made festivals, this would be it.

How marvellous that so many people can enthuse about one grape varietal. I understand the enthusiasm, too, for I can be quite a riesling-anorak myself, given the right company.

Sadly, I don’t think a such a festival held in up-county North Yorkshire would draw such a large crowd. Apart from the inherent shortage of riesling vines, there is the small problem of association. Riesling, to many UK wine drinkers, still means cheap, sugary and nasty: how far from the truth those notions are.

I’m afraid I’ve never tasted riesling from any Finger Lakes’ area wineries, although I’m sure they are excellent. However, I can recommend some bottles from other parts of the world, which are available from outlets closer to home.

I’ve picked dry rieslings from three continents: three bottles to enjoy if you’re already a fan of the grape, or a trio that will convert you otherwise. I think they are quite contrasting in style but all three will cut it with fish and would work really well with modern spicy chicken dishes too. I’ll opt for a large grilled trout, smothered in butter with mine.

From the Pacific cooled Leyda Valley in Chile, is a new addition to the Majestic list, Costero Riesling 2009, out of the Vina Leyda stable. It’s still very young and will only get better for a year or so more maturing in the bottle. Bone dry and very fresh, it shows plenty of minerality, with citrus fruit flavours and a hint of peach.

Australia’s Clare Valley region has a richly deserved reputation for good Riesling, but the grape also thrives in the Tasmanian climate. A good example being South Pirie Riesling 2006, which is drinking perfectly right now. It has all the characteristic kerosene notes you might expect in a more mature example, with aromas of honeysuckle, flavours of lime, grapefruit and orange pith and a lingering slate mineral finish.

Or if you favour the Old World, try the Wine Society’s Exhibition Riesling 2007, which comes from the Josmeyer estate in southern Alsace. This is food friendly, full-bodied and quite rich with flavours of lime, apple, honey and of course, the mineral notes that every good riesling should have in abundance.

• Costero Riesling 2009, Vina Leyda, £6.95 when you buy two bottles at Majestic 17/20.

• South Pirie Riesling 2006, Tasmania, £8.99 at The Halifax Wine Company (halifaxwinecompany.com) 18/20.

• The Society’s Exhibition Riesling 2007, Alsace, £11.95 from The Wine Society (thewinesociety.com) 17/20