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South African sauvignon blanc


CALL this a cold snap? I remember the winter of 1978/79 when we didn’t have snowdrifts, we had glacial crevasses.

In some places, where there was a channel between the snow walls, I could pilot my imaginary Star Wars X-wing fighter on a mission to destroy the Death Star. I also recall helping to build an igloo with friends in the garden next door.

I will, however, admit things are a touch on the chilly side at the mo. Which is in stark contrast to South Africa where England’s cricketers are, as I write, sweltering in the heat. This has partly inspired my selection of wines this week as originally I was going to suggest some beefy reds to warm your blood. Then I thought the opposite would be better: bottled sunshine.

So I’m suggesting a trio of wines to help conjure thoughts of summer as you toast your feet in front of the fire. The following whites will remind you of warmer climes and fittingly they are all South African.

The South Africans have earned a reputation for good, reasonably priced sauvignon blanc. I like it because it doesn’t try to imitate Kiwi sauvignon from Marlborough; often it is less aggressive and more restrained. Look for the 2009 vintage, as sauvignon blanc is best drunk when it is still young.

Impressive at the price is Fish Hoek Sauvignon Blanc 2009, part of an affordable range from winemaker Bruce Jack. It’s simple, crisp, and clean, with forward flavours of limes, gooseberries and quite a long finish.

Oddbins have De Grendel Sauvignon Blanc 2009 from the Cape of Good Hope. This is a characterful, fresh wine with pronounced gooseberry flavours, limes, green pea and a twist of pineapple.

Over at Field and Fawcett, near Grimston Bar, in York, there is Charles Back Fairview Sauvignon Blanc 2009. This also has plenty of zingy, crisp, flavours of goosegogs and green pea with some orchard fruit notes too.

• Fish Hoek Sauvignon Blanc 2009, £6.45 at Waitrose 17/20

• De Grendel Sauvignon Blanc 2009, £7.99 at Oddbins 18/20

• Charles Back Fairview Sauvignon Blanc 2009, £7.99 at Field and Fawcett 17/20

• Field and Fawcett reopens on Monday after a New Year break.


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