From fizz to port (From York Press)

From fizz to port

10:39am Saturday 19th December 2009 in

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CHRISTMAS is all about traditions. In recent years, I’ve taken to making my own Christmas crackers, which includes trying to think up some suitable jokes. I’ve failed miserably in my attempts so far and have resorted to a Google search for suitably groanworthy whimsy. There’s room for a couple here though, just to get you in the festive spirit.

My favourite is:

Q. What’s ET short for?

A. Because he’s only got little legs.

Closely followed by:

Q. What’s big, grey and wears glass slippers?

A. Cinderelephant.

Also in keeping with tradition, here is my selection of 12 wines for Christmas. Most of those listed have featured in this column during the past year and have been rated 18/20 or higher. As ever, I’ve tried to cover all vinous Yuletide requirements.

Kick things off with a cracking, credit-crunch Christmas fizz in the shape of Laurens Les Graimenous Cremant de Limoux 2006 (£8.25 from York based HC Wines hcwines.co.uk). Lightly sparkling but full-flavoured, it has aromas of honey and freshly baked bread, with orchard fruits and lemon on the palate. It is a much better wine than many Champagnes at three times the price.

It’s always a good idea to have a ‘house’ red and white in for the festive season. These have to be affordable, so in the white corner I’ve chosen a good ‘necking’ wine from Sicily, Foraci “Tre Cupole” Grillo 2008 (£4.99 each, when you buy two, at Majestic). It slips down far too easily and is round in the mouth but not lacking in acidity, with bright lemon and pineapple flavours and mineral notes too.

In the red corner an old favourite, Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (£5 at Sainsbury’s, on offer until the New Year) fits the bill. From Chile’s Central Valley region, it’s full, smooth and structured with flavours of cassis, cherry, dark chocolate, vanilla and smoky oak.

Hugel Riesling 2007 (£12.99, Lewis & Cooper, Northallerton) from Alsace, would be perfect for washing down grilled fish dishes. Bone dry, crisp and fairly rich, it has razor sharp flavours of grapefruit, orange and lemon, with notes of white flowers, honey and lots of minerality.

Rosé is a versatile wine. I’ve picked a beautiful Provencal pink which will go with smoked salmon and brighten up cold turkey and cranberry, or could be served as an aperitif on the big day. Château Pontet Bagatelle, La Rosée de Bagatelle 2008 (£9.99 at Great Northern Wine in Ripon), has scents of strawberry and blossom, with a complex mouthful of lingering red summer fruit flavours, lavender, herbs and mineral notes.

I covered turkey and the trimmings in my selection of wines last week, but another wine that will go swimmingly with the big bird, cranberry sauce, chipolata and rich gravy is Forrest Bannockburn Creek Vineyards “Tattybogler” Pinot Noir 2007 (£14.99 at Adnams, adnams.co.uk), from the Central Otago region of New Zealand. Strawberries, black cherry and cinnamon dominate this velvety textured wine and it has some mineral notes too.

White wine is an option with the turkey, of course. Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2007 (£9.99 at The Co-operative and Majestic), would be ideal. From Chile’s cool Casablanca Valley, it has a creamy mouthfeel, with a balanced oak toastiness and flavours of peach, lemon, pineapple, vanilla and hazelnut. It’s a good alternative to a white Burgundy.

The beef on Boxing Day calls for syrah or the Argentinian signature grape malbec. This year I’m opting for the latter and one of the best reds you will find for under a tenner, Vinalba Malbec Reserva 2007 (£8.99 each, when you buy two, at Majestic). It is a truly complex affair, rich and full, with flavours of blackcurrant, plum, violet, liquorice, dark chocolate and supple tannins.

The Wine Society’s own label Malbec is excellent, too. Medium bodied and with characteristic purple hues, The Society’s Argentine Malbec 2008 (£8.25 from the Wine Society thewinesociety.com), also from the Mendoza region, is brimming with ripe blackberry fruit, liquorice and spices, all held together by some sprightly tannins.

When you’re fed up of the traditional festive foodstuffs, the exotically perfumed Gewürztraminer grape is a good choice with Asian cuisine (Thai, Indian and Chinese). Try a Kiwi offering, Villa Maria Private Bin Gewürztraminer 2008 (from £8.49 at Sainsbury’s, Waitrose and Majestic), which is intense but not too overpowering or sweet. It has a rose petal perfume, with flavours of lychees, heather honey and Turkish delight.

Tamar Bridge Kayena Vineyards Botrytis Riesling 2007, 37.5cl, (£11.99 Bon Coeur Fine Wines bcfw.co.uk) is from Tasmania but does a good job of tasting like a German sticky sweet wine. Intense honey aromas and sherbety citrus fruit combine with flavours of peach, ginger and the tiniest hint of kerosene, delivered with just the right counterbalance of acidity for the sweetness. It goes well with fruit desserts or ripe, soft cheeses.

Christmas wouldn’t be the same without an excellent port. I love the bold and rich flavours of Croft’s Quinta da Roêda Vintage Port 1997 (£19.99 at Majestic and Waitrose). Packed with flavours of cherries, almonds, chocolate, cinnamon, black molasses and fruitcake spices, this is the perfect way to finish the Yuletide feast.

Have a very Merry Christmas.

• Tipping’s Tipples is taking a short break and will return on January 9